Kitchen Conundrum

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The Periscope Hotel and P-Box Eatery; My Last Night in Athens

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Greece-711While I was very sad to leave Kea, I was happy that I had one last night in Athens.  Aglaia and Costas had recommended a wonderful boutique hotel in the chic and cultural neighborhood of Kolanaki called The Periscope Hotel.  It’s a member of the Yes! Hotels group, which stands for “Y”oung “E”nthusiastic “S”eductive.  Each of their boutique hotels prides themselves on being creative but comfortable spaces with excellent customer service. Aglaia said that the restaurant at the Periscope, π Box Eatery, was excellent and that the chef was doing very interesting things with the menu.  So I was very excited to stay there and try out this restaurant. It did not disappoint!

The hotel doesn’t look like much from the outside and the lobby is really tiny, but don’t let that dissuade you!   The rooms are spacious and light, even with the dark submarine gray built-in closet and workspace. There are floor to ceiling windows and lots of natural light that can be blocked out by the push of a button lowering the automatic shades.  Even the bathroom is quite large with a full sized shower and a full sized shower curtain, an uncommon sight in Europe. (I’ll never understand how half curtains or half glass walls are considered effective; I always end up soaking the entire bathroom and using my extra towels to mop up the water. I think full sized shower curtains would be a huge seller!) The plentiful and pleasantly scented bath amenities were made by a company called Korres Natural Products, a Greek company that focuses on homeopathic remedies, organic and natural products. There was the wonderful added touch of bath robes and pairs of nice flip flops for both him and her (my oldest daughter quickly absconded with mine as I unpacked and I remarked that I should have taken both pairs home! Oh well!)

In keeping with the submarine theme, there are plenty of gray walls and steel accents throughout the hotel. For added fun, there is a video monitor in each hallway linked to an actual periscope on the hotel’s roof offering guests various vista views of Athens.

But I wasn’t there just for the fabulous room and the submarine themed decor. I was really there for the food!

The award winning and renowned Executive Chef, Christoforos Peskias, was born in Cyprus and studied business administration at Boston University. While he was a student, cooking became a passion for him and when he returned to Greece he worked as a chef at the Dash Restaurant in Kifisia.  In 1992, he came back to the states to study alongside the famous chefs, Charlie Trotter and Jackie Pluton.  For the next six years he worked in several kitchens, including Balthazar. But even more impressively, he returned to Europe and worked under such notables as Ferran Adria, Mark Menaux and Joel Robuchon.  Influences of each can be seen in his menus today. From 2003-2008 he took over the kitchen at the now closed 48 Restaurant and garnered it a place on Restaurant magazine’s Top 100 list for both 2007 and 2008. In 2010 he opened the first Π box, in Kifisia, and recently, a second, smaller version at the Periscope Hotel where I would dine.

I was thrilled that my new friends from Maine who had also spent the week on Kea wanted to come to dinner with me that night at the hotel’s restaurant.  It was so nice to have such great company on my last night in Greece!

When we arrived at 9pm there was only one other table dining. We were very early by Greek standards! But the restaurant soon filled and the room was buzzing.

Our first server was not very familiar with the wine list and deferred our tasting questions to her manager, who found us the perfect crisp and fruity white wine to accompany our meal at a reasonable price as well.

The eclectic menu had several fun titles for several of the dishes.  We ordered three appetizers to share.  The first, “pan fried Ladotyri cheese with lemon marmalade from giam” was delicious! Ladotyri cheese is made from sheep’s milk or goat’s milk or a combination of the two. It’s a hard salty cheese that is stored and aged in olive oil. On it’s own, it has a very strong flavor but this melted version had a crispy crust of cheese with a gooey melted center and was a perfect balance of tart and sweet, made possible by the lemon giam (aka jam).  It doesn’t look beautiful but it tasted amazing. I loved it!

The next dish was entitled “street food of a different kind”.  This dish is a take on Athens’s most popular hot dog cart at Mavili Square’s fare. Think a kraut dog, upped ten notches. This version is a mustard laced, slightly spicy sausage served with a savory stewed cabbage and a fried egg all together in one cast iron pan. We devoured it!

The third dish was calamari in a deep red zesty sauce.

Then they brought us a few more appetizers to taste while we were waiting, a fresh tomato pizza bread and an Asian inspired cold chicken, rice noodle bowl. Both were quite good and had excellent flavors, but the fact that the chicken rice noodle bowl was actually a cold dish was a bit of a surprise.

By the time our main course arrived we were rather full!  One dish that was ordered was a “hamburger with three sauces”, a large American style burger served with three different sauces, each ranging in spice level. Two of us ordered the “Tandoori chicken with mashed potatoes”. I thought my chicken was a bit spongy to the touch and went to send it back for more cooking only to be told that it could not be cooked further. This was a bit shocking to me but the manager returned and assured me that it had been cooked thoroughly for several hours at a low temperature. Ah! Sous vide! Now it all made sense. The light bulb went off in my head. You see, restaurants in NYC are not allowed to use this method for fear of bacteria, so the only sous vide you can try is at home or in other cities and I must admit, I have not tried very many dishes prepared in this method. While not a visually appealing dish, this tender, juicy piece of chicken was coated in a tangy tandoori marinade and sat atop a fragrant and very flavorful yogurt and dill sauce which also served as the “gravy” for the mashed potatoes. Unfortunately, I was too full to eat the entire thing and had to leave a large portion left over.

Feeling quite full and satiated, all of us agreed that we would bypass dessert and head out for a quick evening stroll around the neighborhood. The bill for dinner was very reasonable for the three of us with a bottle of wine. We found out that the menu changes daily so if you go, your menu may differ from ours. But if you see these dishes, be sure to try them! You will be happy you did!

We then said our goodbyes and I retreated to my room for the evening and slept soundly through the night. The bed, while very firm, was incredibly comfortable, reminding me of memory foam and the pillows were soft but plump and offered a good amount of support. I had a great night’s sleep!

In the morning, I was delighted to try the restaurant’s breakfast buffet that was included in the room rate. There was a large selection of cheeses and charcuteries, fresh fruit, cereals, grains and yogurts. There were also several loaves of homemade breads that you could slice yourself and a wide assortment of pastries, including muffins, croissants and bite sized baklavas. If a guest desired eggs or omelets, they could make a request and it would be made to order. From fresh juices to strong coffees and lots of varieties of foods, there was nothing that hadn’t been thought of.  It was a good, solid breakfast to start the day.

Unfortunately, my stay at the Periscope Hotel was short as I was heading to the airport to return home that day, so a shower and some packing was all that was left for me to do But I vowed to return, and I would certainly stay at the Periscope Hotel again or recommend it to anyone looking for a reasonably priced hotel in a great neighborhood.

With the arrival of my new friend and driver, Loukas, to take me to the airport, my Greek adventure was sadly at its official end.  I had the most amazing time there and am plotting how to return and next time, bring the family.

Homemade Phyllo, Fig Leaf Wrapped Fish, Sunset at the Beach and Goodbyes

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Greece-430My week at Kea Artisanal was quickly nearing the end but not before learning how to make and roll phyllo dough.  Stamatia, one of Aglaia’s wonderful assistants, is an expert on phyllo dough and patiently helped us each roll out the dough we had prepared.  She made it look so easy!  I think with many years of daily practice we might “get it” and perhaps be able to make the beautiful paper thin sheets as she did, but in reality, I doubt it! The ones she made were perfectly round, paper thin and made a slightly oily, but crisp crust for the greens pie we made to fill the dough.  She was even able to roll three layers at a time by generously oiling each one then stacking and rolling them! That is true talent!

Instead of spinach, as typically seen, the Spanakopita pie we made was filled with various greens that were available and freshly picked. I love that anything you happen to have on hand, Swiss chard, beet greens, dandelion greens or even arugula will make a suitable filling. We also made a cheese and herb pie with an egg custard filling that resembled a flat quiche and some beautiful single serving marinated octopus pies that would be part of our dinner that evening.

While the pies were baking, Costas prepared the fish that we had picked right off of the boat at the port that morning. He wrapped each fish in a fresh fig leaf that had been oiled and placed the entire package on the charcoal grill, cooking it to perfection. The fig leaf provides a crispy, sweet and salty second skin.

After our long, luxurious lunch, we were treated to a tasting of various spoon sweets. We enjoyed the interesting flavors of tomato, walnut, orange, cherry, apple and homemade lemon marmalade served with ice cream and yogurts. Each one was better than the previous one. I especially loved the lemon and the apple sweets.

The afternoon was spent back at the hotel napping by the pool and relaxing before our sunset dinner and drinks at the beach.  The sun sets at around 9pm so we were picked up at 7:30 and rode along the winding dirt roads along the narrow cliffs to the beach where we would dine. It was a bit harrowing as the roads are wide enough for only one vehicle and there is nowhere to pull over if you come across another car heading in your direction. One of you must go in reverse back the way you came to allow the other car to pass! There are also no guard rails to be seen and in some spots the road appears to be crumbling down the sides of the cliff. One wrong tire move and I could see the car tumbling off. But for the stunning beauty of the view, it might be worth it! I don’t think I could ever tire of such gorgeous vistas.

Watching the sunset, sitting on the beach, eating the octopus pies, salads, breads and drinking wine was the perfect ending to the week.  I could think of nothing I would have preferred doing for my last night on Kea.

The next day, we had a cheese making class in the morning. Myzithra, a Greek ricotta like cheese, is made from goat or sheep’s milk or a combination of the two and fresh cream. It’s simple to make at home and it’s soft, creamy texture goes well with honey, fresh fruits or even sliced tomatoes. We were given a selection of honeys to taste. Some of the varieties sampled included a carob honey which has a slightly nutty, but distinctively chocolate flavor; a chestnut honey, dark, thick and nutty; and my personal favorite, a heather honey. It had a rich floral scent and a strong intense flavor, a rung up from thyme honey which is more commonly found, but also flavorful.

Our farewell lunch was held next door to Aglaia and Costas’ home at Ela’s, Aglaia’s other amazing assistant, and her husband Stathi’s home.  Ela served her pickled vegetables, a savory orzo pasta with tomatoes, homemade bread and several salads along with the meal’s highlight, a tender, free-range lamb that Stathi had roasted in a wood fired oven. For dessert, Ela had made a dense, sweet cake filled with walnuts and served it with ice cream. Her adorable children overcame their shyness by the time the ice cream came and joined us.

Soon our taxi’s arrived to take us our hotel to pick up our bags so we could catch the ferry back to the mainland. They say “parting is such sweet sorrow” and I truly felt that way leaving Aglaia’s and Costa’s home. They welcomed us into their lives for the week, and into their home, cooking and sharing meals with them, laughing and telling many stories.  It was the best experience I have ever had and I am forever grateful! I can only look forward to the day when I will be able to return.

Breads, Blossoms and More with Kea Artisanal

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The next class at Kea Artisanal was one that featured one of my favorite vegetables- garlic! We made a garlic spread called Skordalia. It’s made by combining mashed potatoes, blanched almonds, garlic and yogurt together with olive oil and lemons. It’s a traditional dip used with fried vegetables or as a spread on breads. It’s smooth, garlicky, lemony, tangy and simply delicious. It may be my new favorite condiment. I could easily see this being used instead of horseradish or tartar sauce on fish or meats.

Using the leftover tomato salad from the previous day’s lunch, Aglaia made a type of flat bread based on the traditional Laganes (flat bread) she normally makes. The salad was pureed in the blender and added to the dough instead of water or other liquids. Then, it was topped with cheese, fresh tomatoes and baked. It was very similar to a Ciabatta or Focaccia but was much more dense and crusty.

We also made three other types of Laganes, one with local sausages and cheese and one that was striped with sesame seeds, poppy seeds and red pepper and mahlep and one that was had Za’atar with red pepper flakes.

We then made a delicate batter to coat pieces of vegetables and stuffed beautiful zucchini blossoms with a piece of feta cheese and a sprig of mint to be gently fried and promptly devoured.

Even with all the breads and fried vegetables, it was surprisingly a light lunch, but quite filling!

Of course, the wine was flowing and a nap was definitely in order for the afternoon!  This is a lifestyle I could get used to for certain! Traditionally, Greeks eat their largest meal midday then go home to sleep in the afternoon only to awake and have a light dinner at 10pm. The tavernas don’t fill up until nearly 11pm each night and the kids are just going to clubs at 12 or 1am. It’s a great country for night owls.

In the afternoon, after returning to our hotel for our naps, we were picked up for a hike to the archeological site at Karthaea on the southeast coast of the island.  The scenery was absolutely stunning and the mountain we climbed down to the sea was actually rather steep.

Normally I would say that one climbs up first then down, but our hike was in reverse and we ended the hike with a challenging uphill climb. I confess that I am embarrassingly and woefully out of shape and without the good graciousness of our guide, Costas, I would still be on the beach at the bottom of the mountain. He carried my bag back up, gave me a walking stick and motivated me all the way with encouraging words.  I huffed and puffed all the way up and remarked that when I told Ari I might not return from Greece, I didn’t think it would be because I had died of a heart attack along the way. At the top, I drank nearly a half liter of water in one swallow while Costas was asking who wanted wine! So glad I made it back up that hill!

Then he presented us with a lovely package of what was to be mezze but was really enough to be a full dinner. Legs shaking and catching my breath, I ate heartily a marinated octopus salad, breads we had made earlier and a delicious salad.

The next morning, we were taken to through the Hora, or main town, of Ioulida. Costas guided us through the Archaeological Museum showing us pieces from excavations from around the island, sites such as ancient Karthaea and the prehistoric settlement of Agia Irini were featured.  We then walked up to the ancient “smiling lion” that is resting on a hillside just outside of town. No one seems to know who placed it there or how long it’s actually been there (there are some that say it’s as old as 600 B.C.) and it’s been a source of folklore throughout the island for centuries.

After our excursion, we enjoyed a lunch of mezzes and a flavorful fish soup filled with potatoes, carrots and zucchini at a taverna called Magazes in the main port of Korissia. Aglaia has worked with the owners and chefs at this restaurant to ensure that all the ingredients are fresh and never prepackaged. Everything from stocks to sauces and spreads are made on site and you can tell the quality of the dishes is very high. We really enjoyed our meal there.

We spent a little time afterward shopping in the port town and then making our way back to our hotel.  I had some time before being picked up again so I went to a church and excavation site at Ayia Irini. The church was locked, but I was able to see a bit of the site and rooms that were being dug.

In the afternoon, we were picked up from our hotels and brought back to Aglaia’s kitchen to make Amygdalota, the traditional flour-less almond cookie of the Cyclades.  This delightful cookie has a slight crunch on the outside and is chewy in the middle with the flavor of a macaroon and the texture of an oatmeal cookie. They are addictive and I would suggest making a double recipe!


Our dinner consisted of breads, salads, and vegetables but the highlight of the evening was an olive oil tasting, a cheese tasting, and a red wine tasting! We tasted some everyday olive oils and some oils flavored with lemons and oranges and then some extra virgin oils. Each one was very distinctive in flavor and I loved the Biolea Organic Extra Virgin Olive Oil as well as Aglaia’s and Costas’ own pressing.

Greece produces an incredible variety of cheese types and each part of the country has its own recipes and secrets that make their cheese unique and often times, the cheese is made seasonally in small batches for local consumption only.  Surprisingly, Greeks currently have the highest per capita consumption of cheese in the world, estimated at 22 kilos per person annually, edging out even the French.

We were excited to try over 15 different types of cheese beginning with some mild varieties and fetas and moving to heavily flavored cheeses.  Some of my favorites included Graviera that was aged only 1 year from Naxos and a Kaseri, a creamy, mild, mostly sheep’s milk, semi-hard cheese not too unlike a sharp cheddar. Another one I enjoyed was a Nigella seed studded cheese also from Naxos that was dry and crumbly but had a very floral flavor. There were ones that I didn’t particularly like such as a Manoura Sifno Gylomeni, a full fat sheep’s milk hard cheese aged in wine sediments (Lees) from the island of Sifnos that really had an overpowering pungent flavor. There was also a Melipasto, a sea-washed cheese made on the island of Limnos that had been soaked in honey. The sweetness of the honey didn’t even tame the peppery flavor of this hard cheese.  It was really too hot and spicy for my tastes.  Artisanal cheeses aside, one of my favorites was the regular packaged feta cheese that we enjoyed every day, Plataion brand, which can be found in the grocery store. It’s mild, not too salty and perfect for just eating with just about everything.

While we were trying cheeses, the red wine was flowing and some lovely varieties passed through our lips. I especially enjoyed the Paros Moraitis and the Estate Theodorakakos Mavroudi wines. I hope that I will be able to find them here in NYC.

Needless to say, I slept very well that night.