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Kitchen On the Road- Camino de Santiago- Pamplona; Pig and a Patatas Bravas Recipe

September 7, 2012 by Renee

Patatas Bravas

Patatas BravasWriting a post (or more than one, really) about the Camino has proved much more challenging than I thought when I wrote my post last week.  I anticipated writing every day. But that clearly has not happened. It’s been much more emotional and thought provoking than just trying to come up with the perfect recipe for a tortilla, patatas bravas or remembering what wine we drank each night. Firstly, I finally got around to putting up all of the photos on Flickr- yes, all 5,000+ of them onto two accounts (KitchenConundrum and Riseson) and then weeding them down to just a few hundred for the blog photos – and of course, going through them brought back so many wonderful memories. One of my dear friends had to leave the Camino due to an injury while we were walking, but right at this moment, he is back on the path and nearly to Santiago. We’ve been texting all week and I’ve been steering him towards some of the nicer albergues that we stayed in along the way. I have to say that I am a bit jealous that he is there now as I would love to be hiking it again right along side of him. To feel that exhilaration and the emotional pinnacle when you finally reach Santiago is probably one of the most triumphant feelings I have experienced outside of childbirth. Now, that’s saying a lot! But it’s true. And unfortunately, it’s one of those things that you just have to experience for yourself in order to truly understand.  I think it must be quite similar to how climbers feel reaching the top of Everest. (Although, that may be better, but in my opinion, certainly not as much fun!)

I arrived on the Pilgrim train from Paris in St. Jean Pied du Port on a frigid evening with my backpack and a very heavy carry-on bag, in the pouring rain-no map and not a clue where to go. Everyone else on the train clearly knew where they were off to and I was left completely alone at the train station with not a single soul in sight. There wasn’t even a pay phone or a sign for a taxi. (A very small town, indeed, for this city girl!)  And just as I went to retrieve my poncho/rain jacket from my bag, my lock froze, rendering it impossible to get inside my pack! I tried and tried to no avail but couldn’t get it unhinged.  So, this was the beginning and how it was going to be, I thought. Not a good way to start at all.

Despite getting lost a few times,  I made my way to L’Esprit du Chemin , the albergue, where, when I finally arrived looking like a drowned rat, they greeted me warmly saying they were worried that something had happened to me.  They took my bags and ushered me outside to the porch and to dinner where a huge bowl of hot soup and a towel awaited me. I am pretty sure that was the best bowl of soup I had ever eaten. They cut my lock and unleashed my not only my belongings but the start to my Camino as well.

Camino de Santiago and Foods of Northern Spain

The owners of the albergue, Arno and Huberta, really make everyone feel at home. They are amazing hosts and sadly, there were only a few other places along the Camino that had hosts as warm and as welcoming as them. They embody the true spirit of the Camino. One wonderful ritual, as most people begin the Camino Frances in St. Jean, was to leave a burden behind.  In a plastic bubble, you could leave a note, a small item or anything that you may think would weigh you down (mentally) as you made your spiritual/self-discovery  journey.  Then, you’d push it through a square wire hole in a sculpture they had in their garden. A simple gesture. But filled with so much meaning. I didn’t think I would cry but there I was, crying my eyes out pushing this clear plastic Easter egg into a wire hole before setting off. (I did feel a bit more cleansed after the act and really left my burden there!)

Camino de Santiago and Foods of Northern Spain

At dinner we went ‘round the table introducing ourselves and telling a little of why we were walking. There were many tears then too, along with quite a few laughs.  There are hosts of reasons why people walk the Camino. One wonderful person survived cancer, one was seeking more spiritualism, one was seeking clarity, and several were thinking of things to do now that they had retired or were in-between careers. And of course, there was me… my reasons for walking changed many times over.  But on that day, eating soup, followed by a birthday celebration and a wonderful meal, I started my journey in earnest.

The following morning, we went to the Pilgrims office to register our trip and pick up the “passports” we would need to present to collect our Compostela, a certificate you receive upon completion of your hike in Santiago. Technically, you only have to walk the last 100kms to receive a Compostela, but the most popular route starts in St. Jean – a mere 825ish kms away.  In the passport, we’d collect stamps from all the albergues, churches, bars and restaurants we stopped in. It was quite fun collecting them all and most people ended up with two full passports by the time the trip was done.

Pilgrim Passport

The first day took us straight uphill to L’auberge refuge d’Orisson.  It was an extremely hard day (it did get easier later on once we were in better shape) and it was snowing/raining/sleeting for most of the day.

IMG_7230

Awesome Pilgrims!

Camino de Santiago and Foods of Northern Spain

They say the Camino gives you what you need (not what you want). I’d have to say that it is true- it happened on more than one occasion along the entire Camino. It’s almost as if by some miracle, when you ask for something you need, you receive it.

A walking companion and I were literally dying on our way up the mountain (we were just a few kms away from our destination) and a man in a pick-up truck pulled alongside and asked if he could take our bags up to Orisson. Turns out he was the albergue’s owner, Jean-Jacques. We gladly tossed our bags into the truck and continued walking unhindered all the way there. What a relief that was! My bag, later known as “Lucifer” was crazy heavy and we were really struggling with the steep climb up the mountain on the first day out. I kept asking myself why’d I leave Paris and what the hell had I gotten myself into! But “The Camino” didn’t let me quit before I’d barely started. It gave me a much needed ride for the bag and the strength to carry on.

Well… it was full on blizzarding that night and the discussion turned to which way to go- over the Pyrenees through the snow or head back down the mountain and go around. Several in the group that was staying at Orisson decided to go over the top and through the cold. Me? Being underdressed, underprepared and just plain chicken cold wanted to take the route down and around. And boy, am I glad I did! While some of my new friends were trudging through the snow and cold, I and my other new friends were happily sitting at a café, in the sunshine, having rillettes and baguettes for lunch.  It was the best choice I could have made and I am so happy that I went that way!  By nightfall, both groups had arrived safe and sound on the other side of the mountain in Roncesvalles.

DSC01443They are really not having fun. Meanwhile…

Camino de Santiago and Foods of Northern Spain Oh look! It’s sunny and we are sitting having a nice time. And there’s beer. Yep!  This way is far better!

The first major city we arrived to was just 74kms into the trip, or four days. Pamplona, most famous for the running of the bulls, also has some of the best pintxos (tapas) in Northern Spain.

Camino de Santiago and Foods of Northern Spain

These petite nouvelle cuisine bites are well worth the two Euros you’ll spend. Make sure to try an ample variety. But keep in mind, the key to Tapas bars/Pintxos bars, is to bar ‘hop’. Try a little something at each bar along an entire Calle (road).  Each has its own specialty and its own atmosphere. Some bars are dark, rustic pubs, while others are bright, modern eateries. When you have had your fill, find the one place you like and stay for a while.

Camino de Santiago and Foods of Northern Spain
Camino de Santiago and Foods of Northern Spain

Another wonderful thing about Pamplona is that there are several places to get the highly sought after 5J Iberian Ham. What makes this “bellota” ham so special?  Well, it’s acorn fed, free range ham from 100% Iberian pigs. These pigs are very rare, native to the Iberian peninsula in South West Spain and only available in limited numbers. It is considered to be the very finest ham in the world.  And no doubt, 5J possesses a sweet, nutty flavor and just melts in your mouth.  It really lives up to it’s reputation.

Here in NYC, the front leg (called the paleta) is around $150 a pound, machine-sliced and around $180 a pound for hand-sliced ham at Despaña Foods in Soho and in Queens.

You can also order  5J online from tienda.com -whole, bone-in paleta (about 9.5 pounds) is $650 (on sale right now from $750). Or just in case you feel like you can splurge, the Boneless Jamón Ibérico de Bellota Ham (hind leg) is on sale for just $1,290(from $1,600!). Now, that’s 6-7 pounds of pure heavenly pig!  Unfortunately, the black hoof is removed here due to the USDA regulations, which to me makes it a tad bit more difficult to prove authenticity.  But if you are buying from reputable sources you shouldn’t have any problems. Check out how to identify an authentic 5J ham here.

So now you can understand why it’s good to try it in Spain, if and whenever and as often as you can!

Camino de Santiago and Foods of Northern Spain

Pamplona’s cuisine also stands apart for the quality of its vegetables-the white asparagus and the piquillo red peppers, often marinated in a tangy vinaigrette, are superb. Of course, tortillas and patatas fritas (French fries) are a standard daily favorite while on the Camino. Every day when we would stop lunch would consist of either  a tortilla or a platter of these crunchy fried potatoes.

Camino de Santiago and Foods of Northern Spain
Camino de Santiago and Foods of Northern Spain
Camino de Santiago and Foods of Northern Spain

But it was a real treat to have Patatas Bravas, crispy chunks of potatoes with creamy centers that had been coated in a spicy tomato sauce-sometimes served with a garlicky aioli.  Patatas Bravas are famous in Spain and can be found nearly everywhere.  And nearly everyone loves them once they have tried them. It’s the one dish where everyone at the table just dives right in with their forks.

So I began my search for the perfect recipe.

Born in the northern region of Asturias and raised outside of Barcelona, José Andrés is the chef credited with introducing the U.S. to traditional Spanish cooking and the concept of tapas. He trained in Michelin-starred restaurants including elBulli with world-renowned Master Chef and friend Ferran Adrià (who I had the pleasure of meeting once and receiving congratulations  from when KC came in as a runner up in a molecular-gastronomy contest.) So I knew that his patatas bravas would be incredible. My recipe is inspired by his creation.

One of the differences is that I oven fried my potatoes, which is less greasy, but equally crisp (and less messy). I tend not to stove top fry potatoes anymore because just doing it in the oven is so much easier and the results are just as good, if not better.

The sauce I made is based loosely on Andrés’ recipe. The creamy, garlic aioli completes the dish and complements the spicy tang of the tomatoes.  Serve with a cold beer and prepare to lick the plate clean!

Note: If you follow my tweets/facebook, you will find that I had some issues with the first aioli I tried to make for this. I rescued it and it came out great. The first batch was too thin- so I removed what I could from the food processor and set it aside. I added another egg yolk to the processor and gave it a whirl while slowly adding back in the reserved aioli. Then I added just a bit more olive oil -slowly drizzling into the food processor- watching the mixture come together and whizzed it to perfection.

Kitchen On the Road- Camino de Santiago- Pamplona; Pig and a Patatas Bravas Recipe
 
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Author: Renee
Recipe type: Patatas Bravas with Garlic Aioli Recipe
Cuisine: Spanish
Ingredients
  • 5 Large Potatoes (peeled and cut into 1 inch cubes)
  • Olive Oil
  • dash Salt & Pepper
  • 1 Can Diced Tomatoes (14 oz can)
  • 1 Small Onion (finely chopped)
  • 1 Small Chili Pepper (Jalapeno/Serrano/Red Chili, ribs and seeds removed, finely chopped)
  • 1 teaspoon Sugar
  • 1 teaspoon Salt
  • 1 teaspoon Spanish Sweet Paprika (Pimenton (smokey and sweet))
  • 1 teaspoon Crushed Red Pepper Flakes
  • 2 tablespoons Sherry Cooking Wine
  • 1 Egg Yolk
  • 2 cloves Garlic (Smashed)
  • 1 tablespoon Red Wine Vinegar
  • 1 cup Olive Oil
Method
  1. Preheat the oven to 400 degrees F. Place a roasting tray or cookie sheet with 2 tbs olive oil into the oven and leave to heat for about 5 minutes. Meanwhile, peel the potatoes, rinse and cut into rough 1" chunks. Remove the tray from the oven and toss the potatoes in the hot oil. Sprinkle with salt and pepper and bake for about 30 minutes or until a crisp golden color. Pierce with a fork to make sure they are cooked all the way through. Continue baking in five minute increments if not fully cooked.
  2. While the potatoes are in the oven, make the sauces. Add 2 tbs olive oil into a saute pan over medium heat. Sweat the onion for about five minutes until soft and clear. Add the chili pepper and cook for another three minutes. Add the can of tomatoes, sugar, salt and smoked paprika mixing well to combine. Bring to a boil, and then turn down the heat and simmer for about 20 minutes until thickened. Remove from the heat and add the Sherry cooking wine and the crushed red pepper. Season with salt and pepper. Taste and adjust any seasonings if necessary. (I added a touch more red pepper flakes for more heat.)
  3. To make the aioli, place the egg yolk into the small bowl of a food processor along with the smashed garlic and 1tbs Red wine vinegar. Add 1 tbs olive oil and whirl until incorporated, then drizzle in the rest of the cup of olive oil into the food processor with the motor running, until you have creamy mayonnaise-like sauce. Season to taste with salt and pepper.
  4. Warning: Consuming raw or undercooked meat, poultry, seafood, shellfish and eggs may increase the risk of food borne related illness.
3.2.2885

 

 

 

Filed Under: Eat, Travel, Featured Posts, Appetizers, Sauces, Dressings and Condiments, Side Dishes, Spain, Vegetables Tagged With: Camino, José Andrés, Pamplona, Patatas Bravas, Pintxos, Potatoes, Recipe, Spain, aioli, cooking, tapas

Greek Cooking Continues with FAGE

July 19, 2011 by Renee

FAGE YOGURTJust a few days after returning from Greece, I had the opportunity to take a cooking class sponsored by FAGE yogurt at the International Culinary Center located at the French Culinary Institute in NYC.  One of my favorite meals in Greece was the yogurt breakfasts served everyday with honey. The brand of yogurt I was had there was FAGE (pronounced “fa-yeh”) so I was excited to learn some new recipes using this brand back here at home.

You may think that all Greek yogurts are the same- dry, gritty and extra thick. Well, I assure you they aren’t all like that! FAGE Total  is creamy, smooth and silky. Not only is the texture unlike the other brands of Greek yogurt, the flavor is full and rich regardless of which fat content you choose. There are multiple flavors and three variations available; full fat, 2% and 0%. But classically, the plain flavor, full fat or 2% is the way to go.

For this class, we had planned on making eight dishes, but we were all starving and since we kept taking breaks to eat what we were making, we actually only had time to prepare six dishes.  We did, however,  receive recipes for the rest to attempt to make another time.

The class was broken up in threes and I paired up with two blogging friends, Monica from Macaroni Kid East Side and Lisa from New York Chica. We had such a good time! There was lots of laughing and even more tasting! Monica and I couldn’t stop eating the Macaroni and Cheese, even before it went into the oven! It was that delicious! (Made with a bechamel sauce and lots of cheese, it was incredibly decadent, but worth every calorie!)

Here’s what was on the menu (the last two we didn’t make, but we tasted!):

FAGE FRIED CHICKEN

FAGE LEMON COLESLAW


FAGE MACARONI & CHEESE



This was really just so good! We kept eating it just like this!

FAGE YOGURT DILL BISCUITS

Monica rolls out the dough.

Lisa cuts out some biscuits.

FAGE YOGURT POTATO SALAD

FAGE YOGURT PARFAITS

FAGE YOGURT PANNA COTTA WITH RHUBARB STRAWBERRY COMPOTE

FAGE YOGURT GREEK EGGS BENEDICT

Additional recipes can be found on their website.

Once all the dishes were cooked, we were treated to a buffet of all the things we made, served with our choices of wine.

 

It was so nice to sit and chat and eat such good food. And to extend my Greek vacation a little bit longer!

Try FAGE Total yogurt and let me know what you think. It’s my new favorite brand of Greek yogurt.


 

 

Filed Under: Travel, NYC/Metro, Kitchen Sink, Featured Posts, Classes, Greece, Product Reviews Tagged With: FAGE, Greek, Product Review, Yogurt, cooking, cooking class, recipes

Homemade Phyllo, Fig Leaf Wrapped Fish, Sunset at the Beach and Goodbyes

July 3, 2011 by Renee

Greece-430My week at Kea Artisanal was quickly nearing the end but not before learning how to make and roll phyllo dough.  Stamatia, one of Aglaia’s wonderful assistants, is an expert on phyllo dough and patiently helped us each roll out the dough we had prepared.  She made it look so easy!  I think with many years of daily practice we might “get it” and perhaps be able to make the beautiful paper thin sheets as she did, but in reality, I doubt it! The ones she made were perfectly round, paper thin and made a slightly oily, but crisp crust for the greens pie we made to fill the dough.  She was even able to roll three layers at a time by generously oiling each one then stacking and rolling them! That is true talent!

Instead of spinach, as typically seen, the Spanakopita pie we made was filled with various greens that were available and freshly picked. I love that anything you happen to have on hand, Swiss chard, beet greens, dandelion greens or even arugula will make a suitable filling. We also made a cheese and herb pie with an egg custard filling that resembled a flat quiche and some beautiful single serving marinated octopus pies that would be part of our dinner that evening.

While the pies were baking, Costas prepared the fish that we had picked right off of the boat at the port that morning. He wrapped each fish in a fresh fig leaf that had been oiled and placed the entire package on the charcoal grill, cooking it to perfection. The fig leaf provides a crispy, sweet and salty second skin.

After our long, luxurious lunch, we were treated to a tasting of various spoon sweets. We enjoyed the interesting flavors of tomato, walnut, orange, cherry, apple and homemade lemon marmalade served with ice cream and yogurts. Each one was better than the previous one. I especially loved the lemon and the apple sweets.

The afternoon was spent back at the hotel napping by the pool and relaxing before our sunset dinner and drinks at the beach.  The sun sets at around 9pm so we were picked up at 7:30 and rode along the winding dirt roads along the narrow cliffs to the beach where we would dine. It was a bit harrowing as the roads are wide enough for only one vehicle and there is nowhere to pull over if you come across another car heading in your direction. One of you must go in reverse back the way you came to allow the other car to pass! There are also no guard rails to be seen and in some spots the road appears to be crumbling down the sides of the cliff. One wrong tire move and I could see the car tumbling off. But for the stunning beauty of the view, it might be worth it! I don’t think I could ever tire of such gorgeous vistas.

Watching the sunset, sitting on the beach, eating the octopus pies, salads, breads and drinking wine was the perfect ending to the week.  I could think of nothing I would have preferred doing for my last night on Kea.

The next day, we had a cheese making class in the morning. Myzithra, a Greek ricotta like cheese, is made from goat or sheep’s milk or a combination of the two and fresh cream. It’s simple to make at home and it’s soft, creamy texture goes well with honey, fresh fruits or even sliced tomatoes. We were given a selection of honeys to taste. Some of the varieties sampled included a carob honey which has a slightly nutty, but distinctively chocolate flavor; a chestnut honey, dark, thick and nutty; and my personal favorite, a heather honey. It had a rich floral scent and a strong intense flavor, a rung up from thyme honey which is more commonly found, but also flavorful.

Our farewell lunch was held next door to Aglaia and Costas’ home at Ela’s, Aglaia’s other amazing assistant, and her husband Stathi’s home.  Ela served her pickled vegetables, a savory orzo pasta with tomatoes, homemade bread and several salads along with the meal’s highlight, a tender, free-range lamb that Stathi had roasted in a wood fired oven. For dessert, Ela had made a dense, sweet cake filled with walnuts and served it with ice cream. Her adorable children overcame their shyness by the time the ice cream came and joined us.

Soon our taxi’s arrived to take us our hotel to pick up our bags so we could catch the ferry back to the mainland. They say “parting is such sweet sorrow” and I truly felt that way leaving Aglaia’s and Costa’s home. They welcomed us into their lives for the week, and into their home, cooking and sharing meals with them, laughing and telling many stories.  It was the best experience I have ever had and I am forever grateful! I can only look forward to the day when I will be able to return.

Filed Under: Travel, Kitchen Sink, Featured Posts, Classes, Greece Tagged With: Cheese, Culinary Vacation, Cyclades, Fish, Greece, Kea, Kea Artisanal, Travel, cooking, phyllo

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