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Kitchen On the Road- Camino de Santiago- Pamplona; Pig and a Patatas Bravas Recipe

September 7, 2012 by Renee

Patatas Bravas

Patatas BravasWriting a post (or more than one, really) about the Camino has proved much more challenging than I thought when I wrote my post last week.  I anticipated writing every day. But that clearly has not happened. It’s been much more emotional and thought provoking than just trying to come up with the perfect recipe for a tortilla, patatas bravas or remembering what wine we drank each night. Firstly, I finally got around to putting up all of the photos on Flickr- yes, all 5,000+ of them onto two accounts (KitchenConundrum and Riseson) and then weeding them down to just a few hundred for the blog photos – and of course, going through them brought back so many wonderful memories. One of my dear friends had to leave the Camino due to an injury while we were walking, but right at this moment, he is back on the path and nearly to Santiago. We’ve been texting all week and I’ve been steering him towards some of the nicer albergues that we stayed in along the way. I have to say that I am a bit jealous that he is there now as I would love to be hiking it again right along side of him. To feel that exhilaration and the emotional pinnacle when you finally reach Santiago is probably one of the most triumphant feelings I have experienced outside of childbirth. Now, that’s saying a lot! But it’s true. And unfortunately, it’s one of those things that you just have to experience for yourself in order to truly understand.  I think it must be quite similar to how climbers feel reaching the top of Everest. (Although, that may be better, but in my opinion, certainly not as much fun!)

I arrived on the Pilgrim train from Paris in St. Jean Pied du Port on a frigid evening with my backpack and a very heavy carry-on bag, in the pouring rain-no map and not a clue where to go. Everyone else on the train clearly knew where they were off to and I was left completely alone at the train station with not a single soul in sight. There wasn’t even a pay phone or a sign for a taxi. (A very small town, indeed, for this city girl!)  And just as I went to retrieve my poncho/rain jacket from my bag, my lock froze, rendering it impossible to get inside my pack! I tried and tried to no avail but couldn’t get it unhinged.  So, this was the beginning and how it was going to be, I thought. Not a good way to start at all.

Despite getting lost a few times,  I made my way to L’Esprit du Chemin , the albergue, where, when I finally arrived looking like a drowned rat, they greeted me warmly saying they were worried that something had happened to me.  They took my bags and ushered me outside to the porch and to dinner where a huge bowl of hot soup and a towel awaited me. I am pretty sure that was the best bowl of soup I had ever eaten. They cut my lock and unleashed my not only my belongings but the start to my Camino as well.

Camino de Santiago and Foods of Northern Spain

The owners of the albergue, Arno and Huberta, really make everyone feel at home. They are amazing hosts and sadly, there were only a few other places along the Camino that had hosts as warm and as welcoming as them. They embody the true spirit of the Camino. One wonderful ritual, as most people begin the Camino Frances in St. Jean, was to leave a burden behind.  In a plastic bubble, you could leave a note, a small item or anything that you may think would weigh you down (mentally) as you made your spiritual/self-discovery  journey.  Then, you’d push it through a square wire hole in a sculpture they had in their garden. A simple gesture. But filled with so much meaning. I didn’t think I would cry but there I was, crying my eyes out pushing this clear plastic Easter egg into a wire hole before setting off. (I did feel a bit more cleansed after the act and really left my burden there!)

Camino de Santiago and Foods of Northern Spain

At dinner we went ‘round the table introducing ourselves and telling a little of why we were walking. There were many tears then too, along with quite a few laughs.  There are hosts of reasons why people walk the Camino. One wonderful person survived cancer, one was seeking more spiritualism, one was seeking clarity, and several were thinking of things to do now that they had retired or were in-between careers. And of course, there was me… my reasons for walking changed many times over.  But on that day, eating soup, followed by a birthday celebration and a wonderful meal, I started my journey in earnest.

The following morning, we went to the Pilgrims office to register our trip and pick up the “passports” we would need to present to collect our Compostela, a certificate you receive upon completion of your hike in Santiago. Technically, you only have to walk the last 100kms to receive a Compostela, but the most popular route starts in St. Jean – a mere 825ish kms away.  In the passport, we’d collect stamps from all the albergues, churches, bars and restaurants we stopped in. It was quite fun collecting them all and most people ended up with two full passports by the time the trip was done.

Pilgrim Passport

The first day took us straight uphill to L’auberge refuge d’Orisson.  It was an extremely hard day (it did get easier later on once we were in better shape) and it was snowing/raining/sleeting for most of the day.

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Awesome Pilgrims!

Camino de Santiago and Foods of Northern Spain

They say the Camino gives you what you need (not what you want). I’d have to say that it is true- it happened on more than one occasion along the entire Camino. It’s almost as if by some miracle, when you ask for something you need, you receive it.

A walking companion and I were literally dying on our way up the mountain (we were just a few kms away from our destination) and a man in a pick-up truck pulled alongside and asked if he could take our bags up to Orisson. Turns out he was the albergue’s owner, Jean-Jacques. We gladly tossed our bags into the truck and continued walking unhindered all the way there. What a relief that was! My bag, later known as “Lucifer” was crazy heavy and we were really struggling with the steep climb up the mountain on the first day out. I kept asking myself why’d I leave Paris and what the hell had I gotten myself into! But “The Camino” didn’t let me quit before I’d barely started. It gave me a much needed ride for the bag and the strength to carry on.

Well… it was full on blizzarding that night and the discussion turned to which way to go- over the Pyrenees through the snow or head back down the mountain and go around. Several in the group that was staying at Orisson decided to go over the top and through the cold. Me? Being underdressed, underprepared and just plain chicken cold wanted to take the route down and around. And boy, am I glad I did! While some of my new friends were trudging through the snow and cold, I and my other new friends were happily sitting at a café, in the sunshine, having rillettes and baguettes for lunch.  It was the best choice I could have made and I am so happy that I went that way!  By nightfall, both groups had arrived safe and sound on the other side of the mountain in Roncesvalles.

DSC01443They are really not having fun. Meanwhile…

Camino de Santiago and Foods of Northern Spain Oh look! It’s sunny and we are sitting having a nice time. And there’s beer. Yep!  This way is far better!

The first major city we arrived to was just 74kms into the trip, or four days. Pamplona, most famous for the running of the bulls, also has some of the best pintxos (tapas) in Northern Spain.

Camino de Santiago and Foods of Northern Spain

These petite nouvelle cuisine bites are well worth the two Euros you’ll spend. Make sure to try an ample variety. But keep in mind, the key to Tapas bars/Pintxos bars, is to bar ‘hop’. Try a little something at each bar along an entire Calle (road).  Each has its own specialty and its own atmosphere. Some bars are dark, rustic pubs, while others are bright, modern eateries. When you have had your fill, find the one place you like and stay for a while.

Camino de Santiago and Foods of Northern Spain
Camino de Santiago and Foods of Northern Spain

Another wonderful thing about Pamplona is that there are several places to get the highly sought after 5J Iberian Ham. What makes this “bellota” ham so special?  Well, it’s acorn fed, free range ham from 100% Iberian pigs. These pigs are very rare, native to the Iberian peninsula in South West Spain and only available in limited numbers. It is considered to be the very finest ham in the world.  And no doubt, 5J possesses a sweet, nutty flavor and just melts in your mouth.  It really lives up to it’s reputation.

Here in NYC, the front leg (called the paleta) is around $150 a pound, machine-sliced and around $180 a pound for hand-sliced ham at Despaña Foods in Soho and in Queens.

You can also order  5J online from tienda.com -whole, bone-in paleta (about 9.5 pounds) is $650 (on sale right now from $750). Or just in case you feel like you can splurge, the Boneless Jamón Ibérico de Bellota Ham (hind leg) is on sale for just $1,290(from $1,600!). Now, that’s 6-7 pounds of pure heavenly pig!  Unfortunately, the black hoof is removed here due to the USDA regulations, which to me makes it a tad bit more difficult to prove authenticity.  But if you are buying from reputable sources you shouldn’t have any problems. Check out how to identify an authentic 5J ham here.

So now you can understand why it’s good to try it in Spain, if and whenever and as often as you can!

Camino de Santiago and Foods of Northern Spain

Pamplona’s cuisine also stands apart for the quality of its vegetables-the white asparagus and the piquillo red peppers, often marinated in a tangy vinaigrette, are superb. Of course, tortillas and patatas fritas (French fries) are a standard daily favorite while on the Camino. Every day when we would stop lunch would consist of either  a tortilla or a platter of these crunchy fried potatoes.

Camino de Santiago and Foods of Northern Spain
Camino de Santiago and Foods of Northern Spain
Camino de Santiago and Foods of Northern Spain

But it was a real treat to have Patatas Bravas, crispy chunks of potatoes with creamy centers that had been coated in a spicy tomato sauce-sometimes served with a garlicky aioli.  Patatas Bravas are famous in Spain and can be found nearly everywhere.  And nearly everyone loves them once they have tried them. It’s the one dish where everyone at the table just dives right in with their forks.

So I began my search for the perfect recipe.

Born in the northern region of Asturias and raised outside of Barcelona, José Andrés is the chef credited with introducing the U.S. to traditional Spanish cooking and the concept of tapas. He trained in Michelin-starred restaurants including elBulli with world-renowned Master Chef and friend Ferran Adrià (who I had the pleasure of meeting once and receiving congratulations  from when KC came in as a runner up in a molecular-gastronomy contest.) So I knew that his patatas bravas would be incredible. My recipe is inspired by his creation.

One of the differences is that I oven fried my potatoes, which is less greasy, but equally crisp (and less messy). I tend not to stove top fry potatoes anymore because just doing it in the oven is so much easier and the results are just as good, if not better.

The sauce I made is based loosely on Andrés’ recipe. The creamy, garlic aioli completes the dish and complements the spicy tang of the tomatoes.  Serve with a cold beer and prepare to lick the plate clean!

Note: If you follow my tweets/facebook, you will find that I had some issues with the first aioli I tried to make for this. I rescued it and it came out great. The first batch was too thin- so I removed what I could from the food processor and set it aside. I added another egg yolk to the processor and gave it a whirl while slowly adding back in the reserved aioli. Then I added just a bit more olive oil -slowly drizzling into the food processor- watching the mixture come together and whizzed it to perfection.

Kitchen On the Road- Camino de Santiago- Pamplona; Pig and a Patatas Bravas Recipe
 
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Author: Renee
Recipe type: Patatas Bravas with Garlic Aioli Recipe
Cuisine: Spanish
Ingredients
  • 5 Large Potatoes (peeled and cut into 1 inch cubes)
  • Olive Oil
  • dash Salt & Pepper
  • 1 Can Diced Tomatoes (14 oz can)
  • 1 Small Onion (finely chopped)
  • 1 Small Chili Pepper (Jalapeno/Serrano/Red Chili, ribs and seeds removed, finely chopped)
  • 1 teaspoon Sugar
  • 1 teaspoon Salt
  • 1 teaspoon Spanish Sweet Paprika (Pimenton (smokey and sweet))
  • 1 teaspoon Crushed Red Pepper Flakes
  • 2 tablespoons Sherry Cooking Wine
  • 1 Egg Yolk
  • 2 cloves Garlic (Smashed)
  • 1 tablespoon Red Wine Vinegar
  • 1 cup Olive Oil
Method
  1. Preheat the oven to 400 degrees F. Place a roasting tray or cookie sheet with 2 tbs olive oil into the oven and leave to heat for about 5 minutes. Meanwhile, peel the potatoes, rinse and cut into rough 1" chunks. Remove the tray from the oven and toss the potatoes in the hot oil. Sprinkle with salt and pepper and bake for about 30 minutes or until a crisp golden color. Pierce with a fork to make sure they are cooked all the way through. Continue baking in five minute increments if not fully cooked.
  2. While the potatoes are in the oven, make the sauces. Add 2 tbs olive oil into a saute pan over medium heat. Sweat the onion for about five minutes until soft and clear. Add the chili pepper and cook for another three minutes. Add the can of tomatoes, sugar, salt and smoked paprika mixing well to combine. Bring to a boil, and then turn down the heat and simmer for about 20 minutes until thickened. Remove from the heat and add the Sherry cooking wine and the crushed red pepper. Season with salt and pepper. Taste and adjust any seasonings if necessary. (I added a touch more red pepper flakes for more heat.)
  3. To make the aioli, place the egg yolk into the small bowl of a food processor along with the smashed garlic and 1tbs Red wine vinegar. Add 1 tbs olive oil and whirl until incorporated, then drizzle in the rest of the cup of olive oil into the food processor with the motor running, until you have creamy mayonnaise-like sauce. Season to taste with salt and pepper.
  4. Warning: Consuming raw or undercooked meat, poultry, seafood, shellfish and eggs may increase the risk of food borne related illness.
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Filed Under: Eat, Travel, Featured Posts, Appetizers, Sauces, Dressings and Condiments, Side Dishes, Spain, Vegetables Tagged With: Camino, José Andrés, Pamplona, Patatas Bravas, Pintxos, Potatoes, Recipe, Spain, aioli, cooking, tapas

Kitchen On the Road – Camino de Santiago, A Hike Across Spain

August 24, 2012 by Renee

This past Spring, I walked/hiked/struggled the Camino de Santiago.  For those who don’t know, it’s traditionally a pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela near the West coast of Northern Spain from several points all over Europe. The route I chose, the Camino Frances, begins in France and ends some 800+kms later. (For an idea of what it is like, watch the incredible movie, “The Way”, starring Martin Sheen and Emilio Estevez-who also directed the film.)

I flew into Paris and spent a few, last days among “civilization” before heading out on my trek. After wining (whining too) and dining, and visits with some of my friends, I took the “pilgrim” train towards the charming, small village of St. Jean Pied de Port (literally, St, John at the foot of the mountain pass) nestled in the foothills of the Pyrenees where I would begin my journey on the Camino de Santiago.

I had no idea, then, what effect it would have on my life. I knew it would be special, but it was more than just special. It was life-changing. The people I met and the experiences I had were among the very best of my entire life. I’m not going to lie and say it was easy (someone implied before I left, that it was just a walk- they could not have been more wrong!). It was the hardest, most physically demanding, most mentally challenging thing I have ever done. And I loved it!

Sure, there were tears. Lots of tears. There were extremely hard uphill climbs and sloshing through calf deep mud.

IMG_2501

There were long days when my feet burned with blisters and my muscles seized and the kms seemed to never end. There was horrid weather- rain, hail, freezing temperatures.

Ready

Then there was heat and scorching sun and I had a “stupid” hat with a brim that refused to stay down, so my face reddened in the sun.  There were the albergues (or hostels), some sparse and very basic and then some almost like hotels.  They were clean and they were dirty. But you couldn’t really complain at 5-10 euros a bed.  There were communal showers with flimsy curtains and towels that were the size of washcloths (I finally bought a large one in a major city) and you’d have to dry off and dress in the shower stall so you wouldn’t flash the world. There were the bunk beds (I nearly always had a top bunk- and a Moro reflex to go along with it!) and the mummy sleeping bag that slid around the bed and trapped me inside in a stifling position. I usually sleep with one knee up. No chance of that with my mummy bag.

Ventosa to CirenuaCirenua to Granon

Then there was “Lucifer”. Lucifer was the name my backpack earned as it was truly the devil on my back. That pack weighed nearly 20kilos at the start and dropped down to around 16kilos and no matter what I got rid of, it stayed around 14-15kilos for the entire trip. By the end of the journey, I gave up carrying “him” and sent him by car “Jaco-trans” or by Peugeot to my next destination. The problem with that though was gauging what I needed for the day hike and exactly how far I would have to travel to meet my pack (and sleeping bag etc.) each night.

The pack that would be named "Lucifer"

25kms became my breaking point each day. But there were some days where we walked 30 or even 35 kms. And then there was one day where we stopped counting after 35 kms! Needless to say, that was not a good day.

But there were the people I met along the way…people I walked with every day, and people I only walked with on some days, but each person had a story to tell and each person was absolutely pure in heart and soul. The kindest, warmest and most wonderful people I have ever known and I am truly blessed and honored to have met each and every one of them. Some, I am lucky enough now, to call lifelong friends and family; My Camino Family. I love them all dearly. They made the trials, tribulations and the trip worth everything.

And of course, there was the wine. And the food.  And the liquors.

Logrono to Ventosa

We would start each day with the “Pilgrim” breakfast- usually a café con leche and leftover (stale toasted) baguette with butter or jam. By the first village, we’d stop at the bar (bar/café/only thing open in a town that may or may not serve food) for café con leche and a slice of Tortilla, a potato omelet. Some were bland, but many were delightfully flavorful. Some even were cheesy and filled with other vegetables.  There were also the Bocadillas (sub sized sandwiches) filled with hams and cheeses. If we were lucky, there might even be patatas fritos or patatas bravos (French fries or French Fries with a spicy sauce).  We’d linger over our cafés and then we’d order the most delicious, fresh squeezed orange juice that has ever passed your lips. They were served in large glasses with a packet of sugar, which we’d take with us as an emergency energy boost later in the day.  With our bellys full, we’d be able to get some miles (kms) under our belts before stopping for lunch.

IMG_7906IMG_7766IMG_7907Logrono

Some days we’d pass a Panadería/Pastelerias (bakery/pastry shop) and stop in for treats. Crème filled pastries, éclairs, napoleons or sweet almond cookies called Polvorones, leaving us covered in powdered sugar as we ate them.

IMG_8044

Many days, early in the journey, were spent traveling through the wine regions of Navarra and Rioja. We became very adept at ordering vino tintos (red wine). Most notably, a Rioja Crianza became the wine of choice. The term “Crianza” refers to wines aged for 2 years with a minimum of 12 months in oak and 12 months in the bottle before being allowed to be sold. These wines tend to have more body with strong acidity that helps them to pair well with heavier foods – like roasted meats and rich sauces (for instance, we drank it with the famous lamb made in Burgos). We consumed many a glass of this ruby red treasure.

IMG_2547

In the afternoons, we’d stop for tapas or rather, Pintxos, as they are called in Northern Spain. These little bite sized delights sat on top of small pieces of bread and ranged from seafoods (shrimp or eel) to vegetables (mushrooms) to meats (hams). We’d order a variety with a cerveza (beer), take off our boots and put our feet up.

LogronoIMG_8239IMG_7718

Later in the trip, as the weather turned warm, we’d stop for ice creams too. Magnum Ice Cream Pops were very popular along the trail. A decadent dessert at home, but a welcome cool treat on the hottest of days. The Double Caramel was sinfully good. Surprisingly, or not, even with all of the sweets and treats, I lost weight on this trip!

But what was most wonderful, were the evening meals where I’d gather with other pilgrims, either at the albergue or at a restaurant.  We’d talk about our lives back home or our day and how far we traveled, how hard the trail was, our body aches and what we wanted to the next day. We’d talk about all that we saw along the way and we’d toast to surviving another day on the trail.  We’d eat until we were nearly asleep.  And more so, we’d laugh and laugh, giddy with exhaustion. This time together and these meals were really the sustenance that kept us going and it was what we looked forward to each day.

A Camino Family

My journey lasted exactly 5 weeks, 35 days on the trail, far more than I could ever explain here, however, over the next week I’ll fill you in on some of the most memorable meals and experiences I had along The Way.

Filed Under: Travel, Featured Posts, Spain Tagged With: Camino Frances, Camino de Santiago, Navarra, Pintxos, Polvorones, Rioja, Spain, Travel, Way of St. James, Wine, bocadillas, patatas fritos, tapas, tortilla

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