Kitchen Conundrum

O-Chateau Wine Bar and Restaurant

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I have a new favorite spot in Paris. It’s, not surprisingly, a wine bar and restaurant.  It’s true that I do enjoy a glass or three of wine from time to time (shh!) and well, food, it’s my comfort zone. If I’m not cooking, I’m eating. And so, this is really the perfect place to find me.

The ever charming, Olivier Magny, owner, sommelier and author of Stuff Parisians Like, a hysterical and snarky look at his fellow Parisians, has created a unique and exciting experience at O-Chateau.  He and his incredibly savvy and equally charismatic, business partner and friend, Nicolas Paradis, have taken the hoighty-toighty out of wine education and have made it remarkably accessible and enjoyable for even those who never thought they could learn all that much about wine.   From their new home near The Louvre, in a beautifully remodeled storefront,  featuring a wine bar and restaurant, a stunning stone wine cellar/tasting room and a large downstairs event space, they provide guided wine tastings throughout the week as well as excursions to several parts of the French wine country.

In a very relaxed atmosphere, with incredibly friendly sommeliers, each tasting provides a wealth of information about wine from all corners of France. You can partake in sessions from one hour tastings to full scale wine tasting lunches or dinners and easily walk away and be able to impress your friends and neighbors back home with everything you have learned. You are certain to smile and laugh and you may even speak a little French when you are done! There are even river cruise tastings and a day trip to the Champagne region will take you through some of France’s most beautiful countryside and quaint villages, all the while mellowly sipping glasses of bubbly.

Prefer to try some wine on your own? Well, at O-Chateau’s wine bar, patrons can sit at the bar and sample from forty different wines housed in the By the Glass refrigeration and dispensing system.  In measures of a large sip (3ml) up to a full glass (15ml) you can try red, white and rose wines plus a few Champagnes, all at very affordable prices. During happy hour, from 6-8pm, you can even sample a glass of whatever the house is serving that night for a mere 5 euro. A real steal considering the superior quality of wines offered.  They also offer “flights” of wine that have been pre-selected or you can do like I did one night and just start at the top of the wine list and work your way down. I choose 6- 3ml glasses at a time to try and in three turns I had tried every single red wine with the exception of the Petrus. (I am on a budget myself!) With the expert guidance and knowledge imparted by Maxime, the bar manager, I learned something about each wine I tasted (Yes, I took notes!) and now I know exactly what characteristics I prefer in my glass. Not to mention, it was great fun to try so many at once! (Afterwards, I had mustered up enough courage and took a ride on the nearby famous Paris ferris wheel, La Grande Roue, and wasn’t even afraid of the heights! I’ve since taken a daytime ride as well and have to say that the wine helped! In my defense, it was a very windy day and the swinging car didn’t go over well with me. Another story!)

As usually happens, you may become hungry while appraising your beverage.  You can order from the bar menu where you’ll be served wooden boards overflowing with premium cheeses or charcuterie. They are far too much for just one person to eat on their own, but sharing with your barmates or friends is ideal.  Small plates, like the simple but elegant bruschetta , foie gras  or the generous slices of the exquisitely sweet, salty and slighty nutty Bellota ham served with slices of fresh baguettes are perfect accompaniments as well.  Or if you are really daring, you can just have dessert!

Each evening, the restaurant serves a set three course menu featuring only the freshest, seasonal ingredients available for just 32euro. You can turn that menu into a full “Tasting Menu” (65euro) which includes 3 wines and 1 Champagne thoughtfully chosen by an expert sommelier to match your meal. This is a real bargain given the excellence of each handcrafted menu item.  Of course, if you so desire, you can also indulge in each course ala carte; appetizer (11euro), main course (17euro) and dessert (7euro).  You don’t have to break the bank in order to have a marvelous meal with wine here.

My first dining experience at O-Chateau came on New Year’s Eve when I booked to attend their gala event, a wine tasting dinner and party.  O-Chateau’s dynamic and extremely talented Executive Chef, Campbell Whitman created a stellar menu for the night. Hailing originally from California where she was a personal chef, Whitman is also the daughter of Old Creek Ranch Winery owners and a Cordon Bleu, Paris graduate. When she isn’t designing delectable dishes for O- Chateau, she can be found writing her blog, Boots for Breakfast.

My seat for the evening was barside and I was promptly granted a lovely glass of Champagne Grand Cru from Pierre Paillard.  Sipping champagne and listening to the cool jazz playing on the sound system set a terrific tempo for inaugurating the night’s events.  By now I had been to O-Chateau on a few occasions so it was nice to be recognized and welcomed so graciously.

The appetizer of Duck Foie Gras soon arrived, topped with Fleur del Sel de Guerande and Fig Preserves, providing a perfect bite of gently bitter pate, sweet fruit and a touch of salt in every mouth-watering morsel.  The course was paired with a glass of Domaine de Souch 2009 vintage from a small vineyard in the South West region of France called Jurancon, in the Pyrenees.  Wine producer Yvonne Hegoburu, who is now 85 years young, began making Domaine de Souch in 1987 when she was 60 years old as a tribute to her late husband Rene, and is now said to have one of the best wines in the entire Jurancon appellation.  Impressive!

The main entrée featured a delicate piece of Salmon filet swathed in a velvety caper cream sauce teamed with a light and airy broccoli soufflé and paired with an unlikely glass of red wine- Gevrey Chambertin “Cuvee Ostrea”  2009 from Domaine JL Trapet in the Burgundy region.  I would have thought that the structure and texture of this wine would have been too overpowering for such a light dish, but I stand corrected. The elements of red fruits, cherry and plums provided a lovely sappiness that complemented the acidity of the sauce and nicely balanced the entire course, debunking, yet again, that myth that fish only pairs well with white wine.

By now the music was picking up and the atmosphere was turning much more “party” like but not into full swing before the dessert arrived. A chocolate bomb, or as the menu referred to it, La Flocon de Pierre Herme, a thousand times richer and more divine! Creamy, heavenly chocolate goodness in every forkful. Of course, saying it in French helps too!

Dessert was skillfully paired with a Saint-Estephe, Chateau Haut-Marbuzet 2007, a spicy, finely, balanced and flexible wine.

The rest of the evening was brimming with music, singing, a cabaret performance and lots of dancing. Everyone had a fun night filled with laughter and happiness.  And as they say in Vegas, “What happens in Paris, stays in Paris”.

My second meal at O-Chateau was prepared by Habiybah Washington, who also attended Le Cordon Bleu in Paris and is a former, fellow New Yorker.  She created not only one of my favorite meals at O-Chateau, but also the best meal of my entire stay in Paris so far. Simple a dish as it may seem; a filet, broccoli and potatoes gratin dauphinois, I have experienced my share of nearly inedible filets here in Paris. There have been fatty ones, thin ones and dry, chewy, leathery, tasteless ones. All at a rather expensive price too.  This filet, however, stood out against all the rest. It was seasoned perfectly, accompanied by a luscious mustard cream sauce, temperature right on the money, medium rare, not too bleu and not too brown. A beautiful shade of pink! There also was not a single bite of that horrid gristle anywhere, thus avoiding that awkward moment when you have to decide if you will choke to death if you swallow it or risk embarrassment by spitting it into your napkin.  Every single bite literally melted in your mouth. Silky, tender and juicy-just as a filet should be.

One of my favorite comfort foods is gratin potatoes and they are really easy to mess up. Overcooked, the dish becomes very dry and grainy. Undercooked, its just hard pellets of potato and unmelted cheese swimming in sauce floating around your mouth.  Not very appetizing!  But these potatoes were soft, creamy and smooth with hints of pepper, nutmeg and that delightful, rich cheesy tang.  I was lucky enough to have an end slice, where the cheese on top crisps ever so around the edge providing a sexy mouthful of textural contrasts.  I soaked up all the remaining sauce with the broccoli and devoured everything on my entire plate. Had I been alone at home… well, lets just say they wouldn’t have to scrape my plate that much.  I seriously could have easily eaten two servings and not have been ashamed of myself!

I’ve returned to O-Chateau a few evenings since and it has sort of become my “Cheers” in Paris.  If I’ve been out touring all day and I am nearby, I’ll pop in and have a seat for a while, a glass of wine and either a snack or dinner.  As a solo traveler it’s a great place to just relax at the bar and chat with the sommelier who’ll not only guide you through O-Chateau’ menu with precision and care and provide recommendations you are sure to love but will also make you feel very welcome and a part of the O-Chateau family.

Visit O-Chateau:

O-Chateau
68, rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau (1st)
Phone: +33 (0)1 44 739 780

 

 

VinItaly U.S. Tour 2011- A Lesson in the Volcanic Wine Regions of Italy

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Wednesday I had the opportunity to engage in one of my favorite activities-drinking wine. Then, learning about the wine in front of me.  The VinItaly US Tour 2011 made its second US stop at NYC’s Metropolitan Pavilion with Russia, China, Germany and Sweden still on the roster of countries that will host the exhibition between October 2011 and November 2012.

The exhibition was created to spread the knowledge of Italian wines around the world and to showcase some of the more famous wine producing products and wine growers of Italy. The event features in-depth seminars, wine professional training and workshops, B2B events, and of course an opportunity for producers to meet with buyers, distributors and food & beverage managers.

Having much more knowledge of French wines (thank you Olivier!), I decided to attend two seminars that would serve as a basis of understanding for Italian wine.

The first seminar focused on the white wines of the volcanic regions. With ten wines to explore, this session highlighted the terroir (soil composition) of each wine’s origin and discussed their unique characteristics. These volcanic area’s soils are rich in minerals and provides the perfect composition for these delightful white wines. Soave, the Phlegraean Fields, Ischia and Etna are all important and distinct white wine production areas.

Soave is the largest production area in Italy specializing in white wine production. There are over 6,500 hectares devoted to the indigenous grape varieties Garganega and Trebbiano di Soave.  The vineyard soils of this region are considerably less fertile than the alluvial soils in the plains. The soils in the western part of the Classico zone (the specification “Classico” with the designation “Soave” is reserved for wines from grapes harvested from the hillside vineyards around the municipalities of Soave and Monteforte d’Alpone) contain a high percentage of limestone which retains the warmth of the afternoon sun and helps produce fuller, more fruit-forward wines. In the eastern vineyards near Monteforte d’Alpone, the soils are made of decomposed volcanic rock that tends to produce bolder, more complex wines.

The wines of the Phlegraean Fields are produced on volcanic soil rich in ash, lapilli, pumices, tuffs and microelements that yield very attractive aromas and flavors into the grapes and wines made from them.  A fascinating aspect of this region is that the wines from the Campri Fiegrei D.O.C. are produced with grapes from ungrafted vines.  This was one of only a few areas in all of Europe to not be affected by the attack of Phylloxera that devastated the vineyards in the second half of the 19th century. (Santorini’s volcanic wine production area was also unaffected. Must have been all the ash in the soil that drove the bugs away!) While the rest of Europe’s vineyards now have been grafted with American rootstock, this area’s vines remain on their own original roots.

The Ischia D.O.C. produces three grape varieties, Biancolella, Foraster and Per’e Palummo (Piedirosso).  The area’s complex soil of tuffs, lavas, pumices and an absence of calcium carbonate, but substantial sodium and high levels of potassium impart to the wines an almost almond like taste with delicate aromas.

The vineyards of the Mt. Etna region grow on sandy soils with substantial stone content. The high altitude of many of the areas vineyards lends itself to producing wines with a great freshness and elegance as well as longevity.  Etna also has the distinctive characteristic of being a region that produces not only white wine but also red wine produced from the indigenous grapes of Nerello Mascalese and Nero Cappuccio.

I believe that personal tastes should always influence your wine purchasing decisions, not so much what publishers or critics declare is best. It is important to develop your own “tongue”, so to speak, of the characteristics you enjoy.

That being said, for me, there were two notable wines that I really enjoyed.  The first was the 2010 Soave Classico Balestri Valda. It was deliciously crisp and well-structured with good minerality and smooth finish.  It also felt like it has the potential to improve further with a bit of age.

The second wine on top of my list was the Soave Classico Castello 2010, Cantina del Castello.  With a nose of peaches, apricots and almonds and a soft finish, this is the kind of wine you could drink every day. It’s refreshing and smooth but fills your mouth with flavor.

 

I hope to try many more Soave wines. They are far better than you would think they are. Salut!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Breads, Blossoms and More with Kea Artisanal

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The next class at Kea Artisanal was one that featured one of my favorite vegetables- garlic! We made a garlic spread called Skordalia. It’s made by combining mashed potatoes, blanched almonds, garlic and yogurt together with olive oil and lemons. It’s a traditional dip used with fried vegetables or as a spread on breads. It’s smooth, garlicky, lemony, tangy and simply delicious. It may be my new favorite condiment. I could easily see this being used instead of horseradish or tartar sauce on fish or meats.

Using the leftover tomato salad from the previous day’s lunch, Aglaia made a type of flat bread based on the traditional Laganes (flat bread) she normally makes. The salad was pureed in the blender and added to the dough instead of water or other liquids. Then, it was topped with cheese, fresh tomatoes and baked. It was very similar to a Ciabatta or Focaccia but was much more dense and crusty.

We also made three other types of Laganes, one with local sausages and cheese and one that was striped with sesame seeds, poppy seeds and red pepper and mahlep and one that was had Za’atar with red pepper flakes.

We then made a delicate batter to coat pieces of vegetables and stuffed beautiful zucchini blossoms with a piece of feta cheese and a sprig of mint to be gently fried and promptly devoured.

Even with all the breads and fried vegetables, it was surprisingly a light lunch, but quite filling!

Of course, the wine was flowing and a nap was definitely in order for the afternoon!  This is a lifestyle I could get used to for certain! Traditionally, Greeks eat their largest meal midday then go home to sleep in the afternoon only to awake and have a light dinner at 10pm. The tavernas don’t fill up until nearly 11pm each night and the kids are just going to clubs at 12 or 1am. It’s a great country for night owls.

In the afternoon, after returning to our hotel for our naps, we were picked up for a hike to the archeological site at Karthaea on the southeast coast of the island.  The scenery was absolutely stunning and the mountain we climbed down to the sea was actually rather steep.

Normally I would say that one climbs up first then down, but our hike was in reverse and we ended the hike with a challenging uphill climb. I confess that I am embarrassingly and woefully out of shape and without the good graciousness of our guide, Costas, I would still be on the beach at the bottom of the mountain. He carried my bag back up, gave me a walking stick and motivated me all the way with encouraging words.  I huffed and puffed all the way up and remarked that when I told Ari I might not return from Greece, I didn’t think it would be because I had died of a heart attack along the way. At the top, I drank nearly a half liter of water in one swallow while Costas was asking who wanted wine! So glad I made it back up that hill!

Then he presented us with a lovely package of what was to be mezze but was really enough to be a full dinner. Legs shaking and catching my breath, I ate heartily a marinated octopus salad, breads we had made earlier and a delicious salad.

The next morning, we were taken to through the Hora, or main town, of Ioulida. Costas guided us through the Archaeological Museum showing us pieces from excavations from around the island, sites such as ancient Karthaea and the prehistoric settlement of Agia Irini were featured.  We then walked up to the ancient “smiling lion” that is resting on a hillside just outside of town. No one seems to know who placed it there or how long it’s actually been there (there are some that say it’s as old as 600 B.C.) and it’s been a source of folklore throughout the island for centuries.

After our excursion, we enjoyed a lunch of mezzes and a flavorful fish soup filled with potatoes, carrots and zucchini at a taverna called Magazes in the main port of Korissia. Aglaia has worked with the owners and chefs at this restaurant to ensure that all the ingredients are fresh and never prepackaged. Everything from stocks to sauces and spreads are made on site and you can tell the quality of the dishes is very high. We really enjoyed our meal there.

We spent a little time afterward shopping in the port town and then making our way back to our hotel.  I had some time before being picked up again so I went to a church and excavation site at Ayia Irini. The church was locked, but I was able to see a bit of the site and rooms that were being dug.

In the afternoon, we were picked up from our hotels and brought back to Aglaia’s kitchen to make Amygdalota, the traditional flour-less almond cookie of the Cyclades.  This delightful cookie has a slight crunch on the outside and is chewy in the middle with the flavor of a macaroon and the texture of an oatmeal cookie. They are addictive and I would suggest making a double recipe!


Our dinner consisted of breads, salads, and vegetables but the highlight of the evening was an olive oil tasting, a cheese tasting, and a red wine tasting! We tasted some everyday olive oils and some oils flavored with lemons and oranges and then some extra virgin oils. Each one was very distinctive in flavor and I loved the Biolea Organic Extra Virgin Olive Oil as well as Aglaia’s and Costas’ own pressing.

Greece produces an incredible variety of cheese types and each part of the country has its own recipes and secrets that make their cheese unique and often times, the cheese is made seasonally in small batches for local consumption only.  Surprisingly, Greeks currently have the highest per capita consumption of cheese in the world, estimated at 22 kilos per person annually, edging out even the French.

We were excited to try over 15 different types of cheese beginning with some mild varieties and fetas and moving to heavily flavored cheeses.  Some of my favorites included Graviera that was aged only 1 year from Naxos and a Kaseri, a creamy, mild, mostly sheep’s milk, semi-hard cheese not too unlike a sharp cheddar. Another one I enjoyed was a Nigella seed studded cheese also from Naxos that was dry and crumbly but had a very floral flavor. There were ones that I didn’t particularly like such as a Manoura Sifno Gylomeni, a full fat sheep’s milk hard cheese aged in wine sediments (Lees) from the island of Sifnos that really had an overpowering pungent flavor. There was also a Melipasto, a sea-washed cheese made on the island of Limnos that had been soaked in honey. The sweetness of the honey didn’t even tame the peppery flavor of this hard cheese.  It was really too hot and spicy for my tastes.  Artisanal cheeses aside, one of my favorites was the regular packaged feta cheese that we enjoyed every day, Plataion brand, which can be found in the grocery store. It’s mild, not too salty and perfect for just eating with just about everything.

While we were trying cheeses, the red wine was flowing and some lovely varieties passed through our lips. I especially enjoyed the Paros Moraitis and the Estate Theodorakakos Mavroudi wines. I hope that I will be able to find them here in NYC.

Needless to say, I slept very well that night.