Kitchen Conundrum

Making Yalantzi Dolmas and A Wine Tasting Lunch

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Greece-141We began our classes at Kea Artisanal for the week by taking a tour of Aglaia and Costas’ expansive gardens that surround their beautiful home and by learning about the abundant plants that live there. I was amazed at the different varieties they have growing and how they really survived “off the land” cooking with whatever vegetables and herbs were being harvested at the time. Maintaining a garden like this is quite a lot of work but Costas is really dedicated to it and he is incredibly knowledgeable about all of the plants they grow. I learned quite a lot and saw plants that I had never seen in person before.

(Top to Bottom Right Side: Squash, Lemon Tree, Artichoke Bottom Row: Za’atar, Figs, Garden, Onions)

 

He then showed us how to choose the grape vine leaves we would use to make Yalantzi Dolmas,  grape leaves stuffed with rice and herbs. We were to pick the tender green ones that were somewhat newer and thinner than the older, heartier ones.  It turns out that they actually feel quite different from one another and the color is a bit lighter. We also picked fresh mint, fennel fonds, parsley and Purslane (a new herb for me!)

After the leaves were blanched for a minute, we combined all the ingredients for the filling and learned the technique for rolling them into perfect packages that wouldn’t unwrap while they were cooking.

Dolmas

We also hollowed out an assortment of vegetables that we filled with their sautéed pulps, rice and herbs and then roasted in the oven.

Roasted Vegetables

Of course everything had a healthy coating of olive oil. I honestly have never used so much olive oil in my life! Greeks consume more olive oil than any other nation in the world; I have seen numbers ranging from 20 to 40 liters per person annually!  Whatever the number is, I am clearly not using enough at home!  We were very lucky to use oil that Aglaia and Costas produced last season with their new press, a huge investment for them, but well worth it when the yield was so high in quality. I will have to try and find one of similar caliber in NY, but, buyer beware!  Not all oils are created equally. Aglaia has a very good article on her blog about deodorized oils that should be read before you go out and buy olive oil.

While everything we prepared was cooking, Costas readied the kid that would be served at lunch and gathered the white wines we would taste throughout the meal.

We also had an opportunity to taste a black mackerel roe with lemon oil and some marinated octopus, neither of which I enjoyed too much but I am happy that I at least tried them.  They are certainly acquired tastes!

When it was time for the meal, we all gathered around the table and enjoyed our long Mediterranean lunch that we helped to create. I think everything tasted ten times better than anything I had ever had before!  I could have eaten the dolmas all by myself!  Served warm they were phenomenal but a  few days later, after they had been chilled and cooled and the flavors had time to develop, they were far superior to any of the canned versions I have had at home.  I don’t think I will be able to eat the canned variety any longer!

We tried at least eight to ten different white wines throughout the course of the afternoon.  Costas had given us a sheet of notes so that we could remember the ones we tried and hopefully be able to find back home. He explained each wine, their terroirs, their growing regions and of course the grapes themselves.  By the end, we were filled to the brim and happy for a light dessert of cherries and mastic flavored ice cream.  And then a long afternoon nap!

Our evening was free to explore the island and it’s many tavernas, but we were so full from our feast that just a scenic view and some light mezze filled the spot.  I was invited to join my new friends from Maine and we spent the evening chatting, overlooking the port and watching the sun set.


Kea Artisanal, Welcome to the Island of Kea and to Your Culinary Vacation

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After an exhausting but wonderful two days sightseeing in Athens, it was nice to board the ferry on the way to the island of Kea (Pronounced “kay ah” and also known as Tzia) to begin the culinary vacation portion of my trip at Kea Artisanal. Just an hour’s ferry ride from the mainland, the boat launches from the port of Lavrio, about 45 minutes south-east of Athens. To get there, a driver, Loukas, was arranged from Kea Artisanal to take us to the port.  Loukas picked me up from Eleni’s apartment and we made a stop at the airport to pick up a mother and daughter that were also attending the program. We had several hours before our departure so he took the scenic route, showing us the beautiful coast of Greece and even stopping a few times for us to take pictures, put our toes in the sea and a highlight, a trip to Sounio to see the Temple of Poseidon.  He was so sweet to take us all around and we really appreciated the mini tour!

Loukas left us at the port with just an hour or so to spare where the three of us sat outside in a “cantina” and had a little lunch. We ate a very odd sandwich that we thought was to be a gyro, but it was topped with ketchup and mustard and served on a sesame seed hoagie roll. So much for our authentic gyro experience! We were really hoping for tzatziki sauce!

The island of Kea is not as “touristy” as many of the other Greek Islands. It is one of the largest Cycladic islands and has only around 2,800 permanent residents. The island is a popular weekend getaway for Athenians who want to leave the summer heat of the city for some rest and relaxation by the sea.

It provides an incredibly diverse landscape with soaring hills and mountains, ravines and beaches and private coves. There are also several picturesque vistas that are perfect for watching the sunset.  A series of hiking trails, both for the beginner or very advanced adventurer can be found to keep visitors active during their stay on the island. We were able to experience all of these things during our stay.

Kea Artisanal, a culinary vacation program, is operated by Aglaia Kremezi and her husband Costas Moraitis.  Aglaia, an esteemed journalist and cookbook author, conducts the hands on cooking lessons highlighting authentic Greek specialties while Costas introduces the attendees to various Greek wines, cheeses, honeys and the extensive herb and vegetable gardens they grow throughout their stunning property.

We arrived on Kea and were greeted by Costas and taken to our various hotels. I had chosen to stay at the Porto Kea Suites which is located within walking distance of the port and just across the street from a beach. The hotel has a lovely pool which I tried to take advantage of on a few occasions. My room, a garden view double, was rather small but perfect for one person or possibly two people who are very close. The room was well appointed with a refrigerator, a microwave, free wired internet, a small tv and a very comfortable bed. I especially loved the very large front porch with a table and chairs so you could spend time outside enjoying the garden and the mountain view.  My one complaint is that the room was exceptionally dark inside even with all the lights on, so it made it very difficult to tell if it were day or night whenever you were in the room.  Thankfully, when I was there, I just needed to sleep but when it was time to wake up, it was often a shock to open the door to such bright sun. I felt as though I was emerging from a cave and I never knew what time it really was.

The best part of my stay there was the breakfast that was included in the room rate. Each morning guests could choose from an a la carte menu which included eggs, toasts, pastries, and pancakes. I enjoyed a large bowl of yogurt with honey each day with a pot of coffee. I had never experienced yogurt so thick, rich and creamy. It was quite unlike the “Greek” yogurt you get at the grocery store here in the states. It was not grainy or dry at all. It was like eating a bowl of sweet silky cool cream. Heaven!

Once we were settled into our rooms and had rested a bit from our trip to the island, Costas had taxis pick us up to attend a Welcome Dinner at their home on the first night.

First we met our group which consisted of five people, a mother and daughter from North Carolina and Los Angeles, respectively and a couple from Maine. Everyone was incredibly nice and soon enough we were fast friends.  Our group melded really well and I was relieved that everyone was so warm and welcoming. Aglaia and Costas introduced us to some friends that were dining with us that evening and we engaged in some lively discussions. I knew then, that it was going to be a great week!

I had vowed before I left that I would try absolutely everything that was offered during my stay and it began at the Welcome Dinner.

The menu started with white wine and mezze such as olives plucked  directly from their trees, marinated artichokes and carrots and dips such as smoked mackerel and scallion spread, eggplant and pepper spread all served with Aglaia’s Sourdough Laganes (flat breads) and Ladenia (Cycladic flat bread with tomato and onions). It was so delightful and fulfilling that it would have been enough but we moved to their beautiful wooden outdoor table for dinner.

We enjoyed a fresh fava bean, lemon and baby carrot salad followed by charcoal-grilled octopus. This was my first experience with octopus and it was delicious. It had a subtle smoky flavor and was a bit crunchy on the outside and chewy in the middle with a texture similar to sausage. I was worried about the suction cups but you didn’t even notice them. The best part is that it didn’t have any fishy aftertaste.

The main course was a roasted rabbit with dried fruit, garlic, olives and capers served with yellow and red beets and beet greens. Again, I had never experienced rabbit and found it was delicately gamey, but lends itself well to the rich, flavorful, vinegary marinade of the olives and capers with the sweetness of the dried apricots and other fruits. The flavor reminded me of the Chicken Marbella recipe from the Silver Palate cookbook that is one of my favorites.

With each course, we were introduced to more wines and before long we were completely satiated. But not before dessert arrived!  It was a delicately sweet Myzithra (fresh cheese) parfait with fresh orange cream and kumquats served with a homemade lemon liqueur to be sipped on the side.

The perfect evening ended and we were returned to our hotel rooms to dream about the week of foods to come.

Athens, A Whirlwind Sightseeing Extravaganza!

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My two days in Athens were a whirlwind of sightseeing, eating and socializing with new friends.  It was over before it had a chance to really begin! I had made lists of restaurants and food items that I really wanted to explore but did not make much of a dent at all in those lists!

Having arrived so late on Friday night, I was really incredibly exhausted and just stayed in and chatted with my hostess from Athens, Eleni.  She was so gracious and welcomed me with open arms and showed me how to work all of the important things in her apartment- such as the lights and the front door. I showered and fell into bed.

I awoke early on Saturday and visited the Synagogue Beth Shalom. Services were followed by a lovely meal at the Chabad of Athens. I really enjoy learning about how Jews around the world live and maintain communities in areas where it is  often difficult to sustain such a community. Especially when things such as kosher meats are not available and must be shipped in at very high costs.  I am truly lucky to live in NY where everything you want to find, kosher or not is very easy!

They were incredibly gracious hosts and I was so happy to meet two other ladies who lead very interesting lives and we all discussed the various adventures we are on.  One of them had recently traveled to Florence for a culinary vacation and spoke very highly of the place she attended. Seems there may be an addition to my ever growing list of places to visit!

After lunch, I took a leisurely stroll through Athens and proceeded to get very lost. I knew I was very close to where I wanted to be but I just kept going in circles. Finally, I broke down and hailed a taxi and showed the driver where I wanted to go. Of course he then became very lost as well! I have found that the English translations of the Greek words on maps don’t mean a thing! They have at least three different phonetic spellings for each word you are trying to translate. The driver apologized several times and in the end once I arrived at my destination, refused to accept any money from me! (Which is a very rare thing apparently!)

Back at the apartment, Eleni, made a beautiful cheese pie (she said it was her first time, but it was perfect and I would never had guessed that it was a new recipe!). Two of her friends had come over for an impromptu dinner, and were busily making salad and slicing fruit. They insisted that I join them and I am so glad I did!  We ate salad and pie followed by a full fat frozen yogurt with caramel sauce and a sweet yellow melon. It was the perfect dinner and so nice just to sit on the terrace, have dinner and chat.

Avra, Ive and Eleni

Because the sun sets so late in the evening, Eleni suggested that I go and visit the Parliament building to see the changing of the guard.  The Parliament of Greece has been the scene of several protests and even some violence in recent days, but for the majority, it has been rather peaceful if not very noisy.

Syntagma Square lies at the foot of Parliament and is currently occupied by a “tent city” reminiscent of Tompkins Square Park in NYC in the late 1980’s or the” sit ins” we’ve seen on TV from the late 60’s and early 70’s.  There are several street vendors selling their wares as well as food carts with nuts and gyros set up throughout the park.  And of course, there are the protestors, a mix of old and young Greeks holding signs and flags, chanting their slogans. There is more of a commune vibe there than a violent one.

You can see all the pomp and circumstance of the changing of the guards, called Evzones, in their traditional garb, which occurs on the hour, every hour of each day. I advise bringing a large zoom lens if you intend to take pictures there because of the layers of security between the crowd and the guards. There are two rows of barricades set up and a row of riot police and a row of Greek Army guards. They were quite accommodating to the tourists that were there moving around to allow them to photograph the changing procession.  It’s best to go in the early morning since most of the protestors show up in the late afternoon and stay through the evening.

I only had my small camera with me at the time but I was able to return on Sunday to take proper photos where you could see actually see the guards. One of the guards noticed I was snapping photos of them, rather than the protestors, and shot me a quick smile which made my day. I felt badly for them having to “perform” with all the chaos going on around the square.

Strolling down to the Plaka, you can window shop along the long pedestrian road but they have many of the same chain stores that we have in the US; Sephora, Zara etc.  It is all very touristy. But if you continue past there, you can view the Acropolis which can be seen from several spots below in all it’s glory, lit up at night. I stopped at a café for some coffee and then continued my night wanderings ending up in the neighborhood just south of the Acropolis.  Even though I was wandering very dark streets at well past 11pm, I felt perfectly safe and no one looked very suspicious at all. I even returned home on the Metro and it was crowded with Greek youths on their way out to the clubs and bars.  I was told that there isn’t so much violent crime as there are petty crimes, like robbery etc.

Sunday morning I awoke rather late (jetlagged still!) and visited the New Acropolis Museum.  Inaugurated in the summer of 2009, it is located just 300 meters south of the Acropolis. During the excavation of the museum, an ancient Athenian city was unearthed and the museum installed large glass floors and more than 100 concrete pillars to raise the museum so that the archaeological excavation could continue. The museum is a beautiful example of modern architecture with stunning views of the Acropolis.  The galleries hold many of the Parthenon sculptures, including a specifically designed concrete core in the same dimensions and orientation as the Parthenon itself that will house the entire temple frieze.  I say “will” because it seems that there are still over 2/3 of the sculptures that were removed in 1799 by the seventh Earl of Elgin and taken to England. Many were sold to the British Museum which refuses to return them to Greece. At least for now!

You can also see finds from everyday Athenian life throughout all of the historic periods throughout the museum. I was fascinated with the ingenuity of a 6” doll that was made of marble from the mid 6th Century B.C. that had moveable arms and legs.  Also, during the Archaic period, the early Greeks affixed small discs (called meniscoi) on the heads of statues to protect them from bird droppings.  Even then, the pigeons were a nuisance! Some of the best parts of the museum are the sculptures. You can still see where the hair of the women has been dyed.

There is also a terrific short video that gives an excellent overview of the building of the Acropolis with several fascinating details about it’s optical illusions.

For lunch, the New Acropolis Museum has an excellent restaurant where you can find salads (5-6 Euros), sandwiches (Turkey, Salami or Feta) (4 Euros),and specialty dishes such as Veal  with eggplant and mashed potatoes from Thessaloniki for 12 Euros. They even have full kids’ meals of pasta with sauce or meatballs and french-fries with milk and a biscuit for just 6 Euros.  Of course there is a wide selection of wine by the bottle and by the glass (3.5 Euros), as well as bottles of beer from around the world. This is a real bargain considering a Diet Coke (Coke Light) is 2.20 Euros for a very small bottle. Better to have wine!  Desserts range from 5-6 Euros and you can choose from something light like Lemon Mousse or Yoghurt Ice Cream with Sweet Preserves to Walnut Cake with Mastilha Ice Cream.

I really enjoyed the Tomato salad with Capers, Basil and Dakos from Crete. Dakos is often called “Greek bruschetta”. It’s a very hard bread made from twice baked rusks of either whole wheat or barley flour. Because it is so hard, it’s placed to soak up the olive oil underneath the salad and broken up once it has become less hurtful to your teeth.  This salad was so simple yet so satisfying. Consisting of just tomatoes, capers, fresh basil, olives, oil and a touch of salt and pepper, it can easily be recreated at home.

I also tried the Meatballs with Mint which was served with a dry garlicky yogurt sauce but I would avoid these as they seemed as though they were coated with a batter and baked until quite dry and crumbly. Although the presentation was pretty, they were quite flavorless and would have been better if they had been fried and left with some fat in them.

For dessert, the Vanilla yogurt ice cream with the sweet strawberry preserves hit the spot. Cool, refreshing and a sweet treat.  You really cannot go wrong with ice creams when it’s 90 degrees F. out!

Thinking that I had escaped the hottest part of the day by 3pm, I made my way to the Acropolis to visit the Parthenon. I was mistaken! The temperature must have been near 100 degrees at the top and the sun just bore down on you. I really wished I had brought a hat. In spite of the heat and the sun, I am so happy to have seen the Parthenon. It’s really an incredible feat of architecture and perseverance when you think of it. Built in just 9 years and made of 16,500 pieces of marble, the architects took into consideration how it would look visually and purposely, gradually sloped the sides from the center downwards while making the corner columns wider. The Parthenon was also destroyed several times though the centuries and had been both a mosque and a church.

The other monuments on the hill include the Herodes Atticus Theatre which is still used today for musical productions, plays and stage performances. It would be wonderful to be able to see a production there, sitting in the warm outside air surrounded by ancient beauty.

In addition to these beautiful sights, the panoramic view of Athens is incredible. You don’t realize just how large the city is and how densely populated until you see it from above. The entire way around the Acropolis is just like this!

For just 12 Euros, your ticket to the Acropolis also includes entrance to several other sites such as the Ancient Agora, the Archaeological Museum of Kerameikos and Kerameikos itself, the Museum of the Ancient Agora,the North slope of Acropolis, Olympieio, the Roman Agora of Athens and the South Slope of Acropolis. It is well worth the price and the ticket can be used over several days, as it is a lot to take in all at once. I made it only to two of the additional sites before I threw in the towel for the day.

So, while I did not see nearly all of the things I wanted to, I did see quite a bit and I’m thrilled that I even had the opportunity to see as much as I did, and to meet so many wonderful people during my stay in Athens.

I will have one night left in Athens after Kea.  I am staying in a hotel near the Plaka because I heard that the restaurant was quite good there, so I am excited to try at least one that is on my list!

Next stop, Kea!

 

Travel Tip #1- Bring a roll of toilet paper with you in your bag, or have tissues readily available. Not all bathrooms at sightseeing destinations have toilet paper.

Travel Tip #2- A hat and sunscreen are incredibly important when visiting sights on tops of mountains. Also, bringing your own water bottles and snacks will save you many Euros at the top if you should become thirsty or hungry!