Travel Archives - Page 4 of 11 Kitchen Conundrum

Kitchen On the Road- Sights of London, Tate Modern and The Prince Albert Pub

August 11, 2013 by Renee

I had a day of sightseeing in London, so me and about five million other tourists made our way to Buckingham Palace to see the infamous “Changing of the Guard”. I had no idea, really, just how many people there would be there. Not only was I no where near the gates, I was across the street, down the block and behind some rather tall people. However, my trusty Canon G12 in hand, I was able to at least get some shots worth keeping.

The band was rather good. They played several modern day tunes including several from films and musicals and even some by Sir Elton John.

I even got a picture of the guy in front of me videotaping the festivities.

After the guard took their places and final people were moving away from the palace, I meandered down The Mall to the Horse Guard Parade. I do feel for these guys who stand so staunch while all the tourists pose with them. I wonder if they ever just want to crack a smile or make a weird face in the photos. I would.

The funny thing is, when approaching from The Mall, you literally turn the corner right into the horses here. This little sign is on the far side of the archway and it would be a bit too late if you happened to walk smack into the horse. That’s British humor for you!

Crossing the bridge by the Elizabeth Tower lends some lovely views. (It’s not called Big Ben- that is the bell of the clock in the tower formerly known as the Clock Tower. Trivia alert!)

But across the way, you can take Queen’s Walk all the way along the River Thames towards London Bridge and Tower Bridge passing the popular London Eye. It’s really a great way to see a lot of the city and take some some spectacular views and people watching.

How’s this for urban gardening!?! What a great way to use old windows and create raised beds.

There is also some fun for the kids en route.

These are some fun ads I couldn’t pass up. I can just hear the one on the right as the excuse to why one would play hooky from work.

Three bridges, a boat and a train in a row!

I had made my way to the Tate Modern, which is free by the way, and had a look around. I love the MOMA here in NY and the Centre Pompidou in Paris, so I was hoping this would be of the same caliber. It wasn’t. I was a bit let down. But I did have a brilliant time watching life imitate art. Do you see it too?

And my favorite one-

Could they be any more similar? Her bottoms match the bottom of the painting and the colors in her shirt match the top! Uncanny!

I loved the William Eggleston and Graciela Iturbide photography exhibits, along with several of the pieces of art held there, but for the most part, it just was not the best modern art museum I have been to. But I can check it off the list now!

After this full day of sights I was famished! And who woudnt be after walking the entire length of the River Thames. So I met friends for dinner. I suggested a “pub I found by a bridge”.

Turns out, my pub of choice, The Prince Albert Pub, is a gastro pub right at the foot of the Albert Bridge, one of the loveliest painted bridges in all of London! It’s just opposite the Albert Gate entry to Battersea Park and across the bridge from the neighborhood of Chelsea (famous for Princess Di’s gym). Oh, and the food? Superb! Win!

We started with a zesty, fresh and cool gazpacho and a salad of mixed beans with salty, cracked olives and rocket We had the bone in strip steak which was melt in your mouth tender, peppery and topped with a sweet tomato salsa. and there was also a thinly sliced duck breast served over a spicy watermelon salad with chilis and mint. The watermelon had been soaked in lime juice beforehand and it had the most refreshing flavor. Every now and then you’d get a zing from a chili but it was quickly calmed by the cold of the watermelon and the mint and duck combination. I want to recreate this dish for certain. It was so good!

Of course dinner wouldn’t be complete without dessert. A warm brownie with vanilla ice cream and creme brulee is always a good standard dessert. You really can’t go wrong with that!

The best part about eating such a good meal? The walk over the bridge afterwards.

Goodnight London.

The Prince Albert Pub

85 Albert Bridge Road, Battersea,
London SW11 4PF
020 7228 0923

M-F 12-3pm and 6-10pm

Sa 12-4pm and 6-10pm

Su 12-4pm and 6-9pm

You can book online or call for reservations- walk-ins are welcome too.

Philly Cheesesteak Do-Over

June 6, 2013 by Renee

This past weekend Renee attended Eat, Write, Retreat in Philadelphia. To help her bring home all the great gifts the sponsors gave out, Sunday morning I packed up the kids and drove down to the ‘City of Brotherly Love’ to pick her up. As soon as we started planning this trip my mind, of course, turned to cheesesteak and trying to find one that could live up to all the hype.

We were last in Philadelphia this past October, where, after some online research, we stopped for cheesesteaks at Tony Luke’s, one of the most famous cheesesteak eateries. Unfortunately, the meat was flavorless, the roll dry, and the sandwich overall was a big disappointment. We left for the long drive home dissatisfied but knew there had to be better. There were too many stories about the wonders of the Philly cheesesteak, the hot beef and melted, gooey cheese for this to be it. There had to be better!

Renee asked for recommendations from some locals who were attending the conference and I did a bit of research on my own. We narrowed our list of choices down to two for the drive home. Pat’s King of Steak and Geno’s Steak. They are literally across the street from each other. We still hadn’t decided which one would be our cheese steak savior, when from the back seat came the grand idea, “Why don’t you get one from each?” Kids! Sometimes they do have the best ideas! After grabbing a semi legal parking spot, I was off on my quest for cheesesteak redemption.

Stepping out of the car, my nose was greeted by the smell sautéing meat and onions that permeated the air on the entire block. I first walked into Geno’s , who’s bright façade and neon signs called out to the neighborhood. After waiting in line behind Spiderman (was Comic Con in town?) I stepped up to the window and in a scene that would make Seinfeld’s Soup Nazi proud, I ordered, “cheesesteak, provolone, with onions” paid my $9.00 and stepped to the left. Less then a minute later I was handed a wrapped wax paper bundle. Not wanting to be seen by any of Pat’s employees, I quickly walked back to the car and passed the goods through the window to Renee. I re-crossed the street this time to Pat’s. The storefront is more understated and stands like an oasis on its own traffic island. Again I stepped up to the window and ordered “cheese steak, provolone, with onions” paid my $9.50 and just as I was getting my change, a hoagie roll piled high with steaming beef, cheese and onions was slid out of the window. I carried it back to the car excited for our unofficial taste test.

The first difference we noticed was that Geno’s steak consisted of whole slices of meat while Pat’s steak was more of a chopped version. I started with the sandwich from Pat’s while Renee began on Geno’s sandwich. Keeping our comments about the sandwiches to ourselves as we ate, I fairly quickly devoured my half of the first sandwich. My first bite was a bit of a letdown and a little déjà vu occurred of our prior experience. However, once I got further into the sandwich and had the full mixture of meat, onions and cheese, I was starting to feel redeemed. I had no idea what Renee was thinking, but she seemed to enjoy her sandwich. After eating my half and Renee finishing about a 1/3 of hers, we made the switch, finishing each other’s sandwich. (Yes, I got a bigger share!)

Not surprisingly, we both agreed on the one we liked best. The meat was tenderer and it had more flavor. The onions were cooked perfectly and the cheese was melted but not too gooey. Although, there was a substantial amount of drippings from the meat, the bun was not soaked. The meat was very juicy and did not come across as dry, which may explain why it was the sandwich of choice.

We both felt that each of the sandwiches could use a bit of salt and maybe some more seasoning or some sort of a sauce (deviating from cheesesteak tradition!). Pat’s did have a condiment bar opposite the ordering window offering hot peppers, ketchup and mustard, the latter two I assume were meant for the French fries and hot dogs and not the cheesesteaks. Geno’s condiment bar was also down the sidewalk and I didn’t venture that far down to see what it offered. We left ours plain to experience the unadulterated sandwich in its pure form.

Overall, we were much happier with both of our cheesesteaks this time, but Pat’s was the clear sandwich of choice on this trip. Yay for Pat’s King of Steak! They really were the King of Steak this time.

We have a few more on our list and have since heard of a few more places to try, so the search for the ultimate cheesesteak in Philly continues! But for now, Pat’s King of Steak reigns.

Of course, as far as I’m concerned, a real New York, corned beef on rye will beat a Philly cheesesteak any day.

Kitchen On the Road- North Norfolk Coast and Norwich, UK

May 4, 2013 by Renee

North Norfolk Coast

Officially starting our grand tour, we headed North to the Norfolk coast. Our destination was to Cley-next-the-Sea (pronounced ‘cly’ and missing the ‘to’ – as in next to the sea. Don’t ask!) We were staying at a windmill that had been converted into a cozy B&B. The Windmill itself dates from the early 18th century and is a striking landmark along the coast. With fine views over the salt marshes on this ever-changing coastline, the mill, originally used to grind wheat for flour, nestles by the old quay, alongside the flint-walled cottages of the village. Of interesting note, prior to its conversion to a B&B, the windmill was once owned by Charles and Jane Blount (parents the singer and songwriter James Blunt).

These days Cley is not quite next to the Sea and stands about a mile from open water, but back in the middle ages it was an important trading port. Today, the mill sits right along the path of this nature reserve walk and it does have a beach, which is mainly shingle and is accessed by walking across the marshes- so good waterproof/mud proof shoes are a must! The town itself is rather small but boasts a lovely deli and a smokehouse where many smoked fish, shellfish and cured meats can be found.

Staying at Cley Windmill is a great experience. The ground floor has a circular sitting room where inviting sofas surround a roaring open fire. You can request tea or coffee from the kitchen and stay here all day if you wanted to. Upstairs each room is unique and has stunning views over the marshes to the sea. Our circular room, formerly the Stone Room, had a dramatically high ceiling with magnificent oak beams, on which the original grinding stones once turned. For the adventurous guest, the Wheel Room on the floor above us, is accessed via a wooden ladder outside the Stone Room- straight up, with your suitcase in tow! And it has a four-poster bed up there! (Must have been built in the room!)

We had booked a candlelight dinner in the beamed dining room, part of the original warehouse built in 1713. It’s a warm and friendly atmosphere in which to dine and we were only one of two tables there that night so we had the room to ourselves for the majority of the meal. The slow braised lamb shank with creamy mashed potatoes and red wine reduction was delicious but so large I could not finish it but of course, I left room for dessert, a simple brownie with vanilla ice cream and raspberry coulis. By the end of the meal, we were exhausted from travelling and stuffed to the gills. I don’t think we noticed any wind that night and had no need for the earplugs that were provided in the room for just that very reason.

On the drive up, we had stopped for lunch at the White Horse Inn in the tiny village of Brancaster Staithe. The inn has panoramic views across the tidal marshes and sandy beaches; it’s an area of outstanding natural beauty ideal for walkers, sailors and birdwatchers. The White Horse’s food and locally brewed Oyster Catcher beer are excellent. Here, we had a mega portion of mussels each, literally a bucket full, and they were probably the very best mussels I have ever eaten. They were done simply with a white wine, cream and garlic sauce with hunks of bread on the side. Perhaps unnecessarily, but so tasty, we shared an appetizer of lamb & mint sausages with a cherry tomato ragu, Garlic infused goat’s cheese with roasted hazelnuts and beetroot and mixed pickled Elveden Estate vegetables. Everything was so good, we actually stopped back on the way home for some fish and chips and another round of appetizers and beer!

Just a few miles along the coast is the expansive Holkham Hall and the estate of the Earls of Leicester with its 3000-acre deer park, large ponds and many walking trails. While the estate is wonderful to visit, Holkham is best known for its stunning panoramic beach and the rich and varied wildlife found on the salt marshes. It’s a bird watchers paradise and it’s also where Gwyneth Paltrow walked across the sand at low tide during the closing scenes of the film ‘Shakespeare in Love’. Although it was freezing the day we went, and we literally spent just a few minutes walking to the sea and snapping a few photos (ok, many photos!) it was well worth the frostbite! It truly is the most beautiful beach!

On the way home, we also passed through Hunstanton, or ‘Hunston’ as it is known locally where you can stop and see unique striped cliffs and magnificent sunsets, made special by its position as the only west-facing town on the East coast.

Because it was too cold outside to walk far, we didn’t make it down to the cliffs this time, but we will certainly will in the future. And we still have taking a boat trip to see the seals in their natural environment at Blakeney Point at the top of a return list.

Some of the fun of this trip was the pronunciations of the various villages as seen in their ornamental village sign which announces the name to passersby. They are typically placed on the principal road entrance or a village green and often depict a particularly characteristic feature of the village or a scene from its history, heritage, or culture. Some can be quite amusing.

It’s Stewkey, but spelled Stiffkey.

We also saw many other unique things along the way….

For Dr. Who Fans

A Quick Trip to Norwich (norr-itch)

Taking a train from Ely, we returned to Norfolk to visit Norwich for a day, the county’s largest city. In the 11th century, Norwich was actually the largest city in England after London and it was of great importance due to its location.

The city has a very interesting history filled with Romans, Vikings, French Huguenots and the Belgian Walloon. Of note is in 1144 when the Jews of Norwich were accused of ritual murder after a boy (William of Norwich) was found dead with stab wounds. This was the first incidence of blood libel against Jews in England. The story was turned into a cult, William acquiring the status of martyr and subsequently being canonised. The cult of St William attracted large numbers of pilgrims, bringing wealth to the local church. On 6 February 1190, all the Jews of Norwich were massacred except for a few who found refuge in the castle.

Interestingly, the city also has the dubious distinction of being the only city ever to be excommunicated by the Pope, following a riot between citizens and monks in 1274. The Etheldreda gate entrance to the cathedral was constructed as penance by the city’s citizens.

The Norwich Cathedral was completed in 1145 with the Norman tower still seen today. The spire measures 315 ft, making it the second tallest in England behind Salisbury Cathedral . It also boasts the largest monastic Cloister in England. The two-story Cloister was originally designed to house a community of approximately 100 monks. Like the Cathedral interior, it features a selection of beautifully carved medieval roof bosses in the ceiling arches-each depicting life at the time. It really is a magnificent building!

During World War II, the city suffered extensive bomb damage, affecting large parts of the old city center and the Victorian terrace housing around the city center. The heaviest raids occurred on the nights of 27-30 April 1942; as part of the Baedeker raids, called this because of the Baedeker’s series of tourist guides of the British Isles that were used to select propaganda-rich targets of cultural and historic significance rather than strategic importance. Some damage remains visible in the city today.

Norwich has long been associated with the manufacture of mustard. The world famous Colman’s brand, with its yellow packaging, was founded here in 1814 and continues to operate from its factory in the city. The Colman’s Mustard Shop & Museum sells a variety of powder and prepared mustards and gifts and is a good place to learn about mustard production.

We strolled along Elm Hill, a historic cobbled lane with many buildings dating back to the 16th century. A famous Norwich landmark, Elm Hill features the Briton’s Arms coffee house, the Stranger’s Club where the Flemish and Walloon community of Protestant weavers came in 1567 and the Dormouse Bookshop. This small but scenic street is often used as a film location.

The Stranger’s Club

Still in the historic city center, nearby Tombland has nothing to do with graves or tombs. The name means ‘empty space’ and is where the original town grew from when Danish settlers arrived before the 11th century. Tombland has remained a distinctive part of the city, close to the city’s magnificent cathedral and, in Saxon times was a major marketplace.

An eye-catching feature of the area is a distinctive 16th century crooked house leaning at a precarious angle opposite the cathedral.

We stopped into the Norwich Tap House, a cozy little craft beer pub that features 20 beers on draft and over 50 bottles for a flight tasting and a pint. It’s really a great little bar, a perfect spot to meet up with friends and the bartender is very friendly and knowledgeable. My friend tried three different ales of various bitterness, while, I, after tasting a few shots of pours, settled on a pint of the Freedom Pilsner. It’s made with a blend of liberty and spicy Saaz hops and soft sweet malts, producing a full bodied beer with mellow bitterness and a citrus hoppy aroma with a smooth aftertaste. It went down easy!

Then we enjoyed a fabulous lunch at St Benedict’s Restaurant a chic French bistro featuring a Prix Fixe menu that is truly a bargain for the quality of the dishes. Nigel, the head chef sources local ingredients to create some truly memorable dishes.

After lunch, coffee was had at the Wine Cellar, a real hidden gem, located through a courtyard and down the stairs of a brick building. If you were not looking for this spot, you’d probably pass it right by. But then, you’d miss out on a great little spot to relax, have a glass of wine, or a cup of coffee and just unwind after spending several hours wandering the city. It has a great menu for lunch or dinner that we didn’t get to try this time, but all the other patrons seemed to really be enjoying their meals.

On the way back to the train we stopped for one last beer at All Bar One, and it was heaving with young executives just released from their offices for the day. There was nary a place to stand near the bar, but we grabbed some seats by the window and enjoyed one last pint before the journey home.

It was a quick day, but Norwich is a fascinating place and has many things to see so I am sure to revisit the city on my next trip.

Next up, we are off to Ludlow near the Welsh border.