Carbonnade flamande au pain d’épice
This recipe could not have come at a better time. We’ve been experiencing some fabulously warm weather here in NYC the past few weeks, but alas, this weekend, to celebrate the Spring Equinox, a dip in the thermometer and another snowfall is in the forecast. The heat in my house has been turned back on and all the windows are tightly closed. So it’s only apropos that we recreate this hearty stew on this last, cold weekend of winter.
Beef carbonnade is popular in Belgium and in the north of France where the winters are long and the ales are plentiful. The “winter warmer” beers are brewed to be stronger, richer and more full-bodied and taste great when you are curled up next to a roaring fire while you are wrapped in your snuggliest blanket or here, where it’s used to slowly braise a piece of meat into tamed tenderness.
The crucial choice will be, of course, which beer or ale you choose to use for your carbonnade. The variety will really transform the character of the dish depending on the beer’s profile. Needless to say, a good Belgian ale, perhaps of the Trappist variety, such as Chimay, would really be the best choice, but another, with good character, particularly an amber ale, will work just as well.
The distinctive feature of this dish is the spice bread coated with a thin layer of mustard (I used Maille Dijon, of course) that is used to flavor and thicken the sauce. Using the French classic, pain d’épices, a deeply-infused bread spiced with cinnamon, allspice, nutmeg, cloves, and honey, it’s reminiscent of gingerbread or Lekach, a honey-cake, and is intensely aromatic. The bread’s distinctive flavor improves with an overnight rest, giving the flavors time to mellow.
As the dish cooks, the bread breaks down and melts into the braising liquid, providing a thick, rich and slightly sweet and sour sauce that clings to the tender hunks of beef.
While the stew is simmering, during its last hour, you have just enough time to make a batch of herbed fresh pasta to go alongside.
Get the recipes for Belgian Beef Stew with Beer & Spice Bread on pages 198 and 293 of My Paris Kitchen. The herbed fresh pasta can be found on page 230.
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Piebird says
Wow! You pulled out all the stops with fresh pasta. Impressive!
Shirley (Flourishen Test Kitchen) says
I was at a complete loss when it comes to beer. The wine store could not offer much help either. I like your recommendation of a Belgian ale.. That’s what I’ll get next time.
Teresa says
The pasta sounds like a wonderful choice to accompany the stew. And I especially love your photo of the stew at the top of your post. I’ve really enjoyed the bread and am looking forward to having an excuse to bake it again when I (eventually) make the stew.
Cher says
The pasta was a lovely idea. Beautifully done!
Katie says
Gorgeous!! and congrats on your feature by David Lebovitz this week, Renée! Glad you all enjoyed the stew.
Betsy says
I’ll admit that this stew (any stew) wasn’t my favorite, I am enjoying the variety of bases people made. Your homemade pasta might take this week’s prize! Hurrah!
Jenniferc says
Your photos are beautiful–the stew was certainly not photogenic in my kitchen =) I made David ‘s mashed potatoes but the fresh herbed pasta looks amazing! I do have a pasta maker somewhere I’ve never used…hmmm…
Karen says
It all looks delicious, and now I can’t wait to make the herbed fresh pasta!